Rebecca Lo takes a look at the wine trends shaping French restaurants in Hong Kong, finding increasingly experimental lists and a fervour for fresh whites, as Bordeaux fails to enchant a younger generation of sommeliers.
On a rainy Tuesday afternoon in early March, Bistro du Vin geared up for its official opening the following day.
The latest French restaurant to open in Hong Kong, Bistro du Vin expanded from a neighbourhood spot into the space formerly occupied by French restaurant Bâtard. The latter moved in 2024 out of the premises it shared with retailer The Fine Wine Experience as it morphed into a private members club.
Now, Bistro du Vin is poised to heighten its gastronomic experience by surrounding diners with The Fine Wine Experience’s 1,200 on-site references backed by 6,000 labels that can be pre-ordered with advance notice.
Wine takes centre stage
“We want people to walk around like a kid in a candy store,” said Randy See, who operates Bistro du Vin under Piccolo Concepts, a subsidiary of Singapore’s Les Amis Group.
“Wine is centre stage here. Versatile dishes make a great bistro. We have the wine element in mind when curating them. A roast chicken can be paired with whites or reds. Patés can go with dry or sweet wines.”
Bistro du Vin followed a slew of French restaurants that have opened in Hong Kong the past year, including nearby Le Colvert specialising in pressed duck and brasserie Chouchou in Wanchai. They all lean towards casual, convivial places with wine lists that are more experimental.
French restaurant revolution
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Bistro du Vin officially opened in early March
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The Fine Wine Experience offers a 2023 Domaine Jessica Litaud Mâcon-Fuisse priced at HK$500 (£48) and a 2017 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Rouge Pur Pôt at HK$650 (£62.50).
“Here, the experience is key – it is more than just about buying a bottle of wine,” said Linden Wilkie with The Fine Wine Experience. “On average, the prices are 60-70% lower than other restaurants since Bistro du Vin has access to our entire retail selection. It means that diners can drink a higher quality of wine for the same price.”
While French dining establishments have long been part of Hong Kong’s culinary landscape, See noted its evolution in the past two decades. The Singapore native opened Cepage in 2008 at a time when star chefs such as Joël Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire dominated.
Friendly wines with a sense of place
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Wine is ‘centre stage’ at Bistro du Vin, says Randy See, who operates Bistro du Vin
“Fast forward to today and people realise they don’t need Robuchon to eat authentic French food,” See stated. “The scene has matured so much—today, French restaurants are more focused and niche. Plus bistros offer smaller, more charming experiences that can circumvent the high operating costs of full-on fine French dining.”
The move towards social dining has extended to wine. Wilkie noted that the Loire Valley and Beaujolais are popular because they are “still friendly with a sense of place”, with boutique Champagne houses on the rise. On the other hand, he said “Bordeaux is not igniting young sommeliers these days as much despite making some of their best wines.”
Head sommelier Juwan Kim with La Petite Maison (LPM) Hong Kong has noticed that full-bodied wines are declining in popularity. “We also see a move away from big brands – at least on restaurant wine lists,” he said.
“Guests still feel a sense of comfort with familiar names like Bordeaux and Burgundy, but they are also happy to explore other options. If they are on a tighter budget or in a casual social gathering, they are more open to trying something unfamiliar. By placing Provence and rosé on the very first page of our wine list, we expose guests to regions they may not know well, and they are often very willing to try them.”
Wine now ‘a social experience’
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LPM head sommelier Juwan Kim has seen full-bodied wines decline in popularity
LPM offers 330 references with 90 percent French labels including its rosé collaborations with Domaine Figuière and Châteaux la Coste, both in Provence. Kim observed an increase in whites, with clean, light and fresh French whites from the Loire Valley, Jura and Savoie currently trending. “This is likely due to their relatively lower alcohol levels and their versatility when paired with food compared to reds.”
He suggested pairing duck confit with Château de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé to balance the dish’s acidity and gamey notes with the wine’s freshness and citrus character.
Bourgogne Aligoté has been gaining in popularity in Hong Kong, and Kim recommended pairing it with marinated artichoke and beetroot to complement the vegetables’ crispness: “When you try them together, it feels as though your mouth is full of fresh citrus.”
“With wine now a social experience – sharing a glass and sharing that moment on social media, the wine must be enjoyable and presentable though not necessarily expensive,” said Kim, noting that the factors contribute to “why French wine generally maintains a higher value per bottle compared to other imports in Hong Kong.”
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