Cha chaan teng, Hong Kong’s quirky fusion cafés, are going global

Supposedly “only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun”, but Hong Kongers brave it too for Lan Fong Yuen. The cha chaan teng, or tea restaurant, is one of the city’s oldest and attracts queues even on a sweltering day. With its sticky Formica tables, it is not glamorous. But diners are drawn by the smells of fried toast with coconut jam and buns served with crispy pork.