For spring 2026, the design duo behind Who Decides War, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore, continued to flex their creativity in a collection filled with surprising materials and new techniques.
“We were inspired by damask prints and wallpapers this season and really trying to figure out how to take it to the craziest level,” D’Amore said in a preview. “We wanted to find a way to recreate these unconventional materials into fabrics. It’s almost like, ‘is it real, or is it cake?’ That’s what we’ve been saying around the studio this season. While something may look like a poster, it is actually screen-printed on fabric.”
The duo also used wheat-pasting techniques inspired by the posters seen around New York City with the adage “Post No Bills.” The result was garments covered in materials that resembled cracks and rooms, or draping that mimicked collapsing structures, with the intent to illustrate the tension between decay and reconstruction.
This was seen in its fullest form in the finale dress, which featured the designer’s wheat-pasted posters idea and metallic tulle covering two donut-like structures that took a team of 10 to assemble.
“We want the model to look like she is walking out of a wall,” Bravado said. “The intentionality and complexity of our fabrics this season are next level, and I think we achieved that illusion.”
Other details like distressed fabrics, raw edges and visible seams helped to emphasize the decaying theme, as did the color palette of dusty grays, charred blacks and sand.
A standout look came toward the end of the show via a chandelier-inspired dress that featured dramatic 36-inch beaded fringe detail. “The structure of the chandelier took about three weeks to get right in order to make sure it can stand on its own,” Bravado said. “With the beaded fringe and an organza that was made to look like spider webs, I love that the gown turned out to be both ornate and decaying at the same time.”
