As a womenswear editor, I rarely ventured into menswear, but Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for Dior at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris has sparked my curiosity. In his first runway show for the house, where he now serves as creative director of both menswear and womenswear, Anderson offered a fresh take on formality laced with a casual ease. Suddenly, I’m considering candy-colored chinos and cable-knit sweaters, cargo pants in innovative new proportions, and even the possibility of a floral or silk moiré vest. Anderson layered the most impeccable crisp blue cotton poplins under knit capes. And his version of pajama dressing was polished enough to wear far beyond the bedroom.
The men’s shows were full of inspiration. At Prada, striped knits made a graphic statement—bold, unexpected, full of energy and intent. Meanwhile, at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello offered a color story I can’t stop thinking about, with cherry, mustard, rust, and aubergine nonchalantly mixed. It’s an unexpected combination that somehow feels exactly right. Julian Klausner’s sarong at Dries Van Noten emerged as a new proposition—not just for the beach, but as a stylish, unexpected piece in everyday dressing.
So yes, I want that perfect blue poplin striped shirt, neatly tucked into a belted paper-bag pant. I want a piped pajama shirt that’s elevated enough for the office—and the perfect pink chinos too.
Menswear this season isn’t about old, gendered notions of dressing. It’s about dressing with purpose and polish, while celebrating a fresh, unexpected mix of possibilities.
Poplin, Perfected
The blue striped poplin shirt steps out of the basics pile and into the spotlight.
Couture Cargos
Auralee, Christian Dior, Setchu
Classic cargo pants return, reshaped with new volume, structure, and runway precision.
Unexpected Color Code
Willy Chavarria, Prada, Dries Van Noten
Colors collide in this season’s most surprising palette.
Collar Pop
Wales Bonner, Christian Dior, Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus
Classic tailoring gets refreshed with sharply defined collars in contrasting colors and textures.
Piped and Polished
Hermès, Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior
The contrast-piped pajama shirt goes from sleepwear to boardroom with effortless elegance.
Striped and Stitched
Prada, Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton
Knits get graphic with unapologetically oversized stripes and playful palettes.
The Sarong Steps Out
Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten
The sarong gets recast as a wrapped, everyday essential—not just for the beach.
Candy-Colored Chinos
Prada, Willy Chavarria, Christian Dior
Soft shades meet strong silhouettes—pastels never looked this confident.
