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Of course, we’re all waiting for the September debuts, but don’t underestimate this season’s Paris Men’s Week. It may well herald a new era in fashion, not least because of Jonathan Anderson’s menswear debut at the creative helm of Dior.
It’s not only Anderson. This men’s season packs plenty to be excited about, including Rick Owens’s retrospective exhibition at the city’s fashion museum Palais Galliera, the first menswear show of Dries Van Noten creative director Julian Klausner, as well as the returns of Saint Laurent and British designers Grace Wales Bonner and Craig Green to the official men’s calendar.
The schedule, which runs from 24 to 29 June, features 40 shows and 30 presentations, compared with 2024’s 37 shows and 32 presentations. (Remember that pre-Olympics edition?) Other highlights include Willy Chavarria’s second season in Paris, the Kenzo show (the first since the arrival of new CEO Charlotte Coupé) and the Jacquemus show, closing the curtain on Paris Fashion Week (PFW) Men’s. Simon Porte Jacquemus, who has presented off-schedule since 2020 and returned to PFW in January, seems to have embraced being on the Paris calendar, diverging from his past destination format.
The week starts on a high with two heavyweights taking to the runway. Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello has historically shown menswear both on and off the official PFW Men’s calendar. Last season, the show took place during couture week. This season, it’s on Tuesday at 5pm. (Side note: it will probably be too early for Luca de Meo, incoming CEO of Saint Laurent parent company Kering, to attend as he is set to take on the role on 15 September.)
Later that day, Pharrell Williams will present his SS26 collection for Louis Vuitton, two years after his blockbuster debut on the Pont-Neuf bridge and a year after the Unesco garden spectacle. The celebrity game should be strong, and is likely to involve some sports stars. Earlier this month, the house announced a partnership with Real Madrid’s football and basketball teams. Will brand ambassadors Carlos Alcaraz, who just won the French Open, and the recently onboarded Jeremy Allen White be at the show? Representatives of the house remain tight-lipped.
Another standout moment will be the return of Grace Wales Bonner. The British designer is on a roll following her success at the 2025 Met Gala (she dressed co-chair Lewis Hamilton, alongside FKA Twigs, Omar Apollo, Jeff Goldblum and more) and her Togetherness music event at the Guggenheim, which took place the weekend before the Met. Further into the day, it’s the Ami Paris show. Will it feature plenty of cinematic references and actors sitting front row? Likely, considering the brand’s blitz at Cannes.
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The brand’s founder and creative director Alexandre Mattiussi speaks to Vogue Business ahead of awarding the inaugural Ami Paris Grand Prize at Cannes Critics’ Week on 22 May.
I’m also looking forward to Klausner’s first men’s show for Dries Van Noten, a year after the beloved eponymous designer presented his final collection. Klausner may not have much formal experience in menswear, having worked with Van Noten on the women’s collections since 2018, but he seemed unfazed by the challenge when I spoke to him a few months ago. On the day of our interview, he was wearing a DVN sweater, T-shirt, trousers and shoes. “ I always loved the DVN menswear — before I even worked here,” Klausner said, noting that even while responsible for the women’s collections, he was also working with the menswear team. “ It’s a small studio. We are working closely. The overlap between men’s and women’s was always very much there.”
Exhibitions galore
The Rick Owens show is expected to be impactful, too, especially since it aligns with a retrospective of the designer’s work. “The exhibition retraces his ascent from his beginnings in Hollywood, his first show in New York in 2002, helped by Vogue, his arrival in Paris when he was appointed creative director of French fur company Revillon, where he staged his first show in 2003, and his evolution in the French capital,” says Palais Galliera curator Alexandre Samson (he collaborated with Owens who also served as artistic director of the exhibition). Samson stresses the scale of the exhibition, which will extend throughout the entire building, the garden and even the museum restaurant, where the staff will be sporting Rick Owens outfits. The exhibition opens at Palais Galliera on 28 June, running until 4 January 2026.
