14th March 2025 – (Hong Kong) Hong Kong continues to assert its dominance as Asia’s culinary capital, with 76 Michelin-starred establishments gracing the 2025 guide. The latest announcement has sent ripples through the gastronomy world, particularly with the elevation of Amber at the Mandarin Oriental to the coveted three-star status after 15 consecutive years at two stars.
The numbers tell a compelling story: amid 206 Hong Kong restaurants selected for the guide, the star distribution reveals a gastronomic ecosystem under intense pressure. Seven restaurants now hold the coveted three stars, eleven maintain two stars, and 58 establishments earned single stars. However, beneath these impressive figures lies a more complex narrative about sustainability and success in high-end dining.
Amber’s ascension to three-star status is particularly noteworthy, not just for its culinary achievement but for its business model innovation. Under the leadership of Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus, the restaurant has managed to maintain profitability while pursuing excellence, notably through its dairy-free menu innovation that appeals to health-conscious diners and those with dietary restrictions.
However, the guide also reveals concerning trends. Six previously starred establishments lost their rankings, including the iconic Mandarin Grill + Bar and Ming Court, both fixtures in the guide for 16 consecutive years. This unprecedented shake-up suggests that even established institutions aren’t immune to the economic pressures facing Hong Kong’s dining scene.
The “Michelin effect” on profitability presents a double-edged sword. While a star can boost revenue by up to 30%, the pressure to maintain standards often leads to increased operational costs. The human cost is equally significant, as revealed by Amber’s 32-year-old Deputy Chef Ho Kai-tung, who describes 15-16 hour workdays as routine.
The shifting landscape of Hong Kong’s fine dining scene in 2025 reveals deeper structural changes in the industry. The loss of stars by long-established venues like Mandarin Grill + Bar and Ming Court, both 16-year veterans of the guide, signals that traditional business models in luxury dining may be reaching their limits in today’s economic climate.
The “Michelin death kiss” phenomenon continues to claim victims, with three one-star establishments closing their doors this year, including fine dining destinations Takumi by Daisuke Mori and Zest by Konishi. Even more telling is the case of The Demon Celebrity, which despite securing backing from a major restaurant group, failed to retain its star after relocation – highlighting how precarious these accolades can be.
The temporary closure of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon for renovation, after 13 consecutive years of three-star status, demonstrates another challenge: the constant need for reinvestment to maintain standards. With reopening planned for mid-2025, the industry watches closely to see if such substantial capital expenditure can be justified in today’s market.
However, new success stories are emerging. The addition of three new starred restaurants – Ami, Plaisance by Mauro Colagreco, and Tuber Umberto Bombana – suggests that innovation still finds reward. Particularly noteworthy is Ami’s achievement under Chef Nicolas Boutin, whose previous success at Épure demonstrates the value of experienced leadership in securing both stars and profitability.
The economics of Michelin excellence in Hong Kong present a complex equation. While Amber’s elevation to three stars represents the pinnacle of achievement, Deputy Chef Ho’s emotional response at the announcement reveals the human investment required. His description of 15-16 hour workdays, including working during nominal days off, illustrates the brutal reality behind the glamour.
Amber’s success particularly stands out for its business innovation. The restaurant’s bold move to eliminate dairy products from its menu, while maintaining French culinary excellence, shows how high-end establishments must evolve to meet changing consumer preferences while preserving their artistic integrity. This adaptation has helped secure not only three stars but also the guide’s Green Star for sustainability leadership – making it Hong Kong’s only establishment to hold both distinctions.
The financial implications of these accolades are significant. Industry analysts estimate that a third star can increase revenue by up to 100%, but this comes with proportionally increased costs. Restaurants must maintain larger brigades of skilled staff, invest in premium ingredients, and constantly upgrade their facilities – all while operating in Hong Kong’s notoriously expensive real estate market.
Labour costs present a particular challenge. The shortage of skilled culinary professionals in Hong Kong has driven up wages, while the intense pressure of maintaining Michelin standards leads to high turnover rates. This creates a perpetual cycle of training and replacement costs that eat into profit margins.
The impact extends beyond individual establishments to Hong Kong’s broader positioning as a global culinary destination. With 76 starred restaurants, the city maintains its status as one of the world’s great food capitals, alongside Paris, Tokyo, and New York. However, the reduction from last year’s total suggests increasing challenges in sustaining this position.
However, the industry still faces several critical challenges. The first is succession planning – developing the next generation of culinary talent capable of maintaining these exacting standards. Amber’s Deputy Chef Ho represents a success story in this regard, but such examples remain rare. The second challenge is financial sustainability. The traditional model of high-end dining faces pressure from changing consumer preferences and economic realities. Successful establishments must balance artistic excellence with business pragmatism, a combination that proves increasingly elusive. Finally, there’s the question of innovation versus tradition. The most successful restaurants in this year’s guide have found ways to evolve while maintaining their core identity. Amber’s dairy-free menu and sustainability focus represent one approach, while newcomers like Plaisance demonstrate how fresh concepts can quickly achieve recognition.
Michelin stars remain powerful drivers of success, but they cannot guarantee it. The future belongs to establishments that can maintain culinary excellence while adapting to changing market conditions and consumer preferences.
