STORY: Lebanese winemakers like Elias Maalouf are struggling to keep their businesses alive through war and extreme heat.
Maalouf’s family has been making wine for six generations.
Last year, Israeli air strikes kept him from picking most of the grapes.
Now, Lebanon’s worst drought on record has slashed his harvest.
Maalouf said the vineyard’s production has decreased by three-quarters – about 66 tons – due to low rainfall this year.
“Our family’s story is like any other family in Lebanon, and like any family living here in the Bekaa region – which is literally one of the most difficult regions for one to consider establishing oneself and working in. It’s so beautiful, to the point you can’t leave, but at the same time, there are a lot of problems.”
The Bekaa Valley is Lebanon’s agricultural heartland and the capital of its winemaking industry.
The region was hit hard by last year’s deadly Israeli air strikes which began on September 23 during the peak grape harvest season.
Israel said it was targeting Hezbollah, a Lebanese armed group backed by Iran.
That afternoon, a three-story building near Maalouf’s winery in the town of Riyak was hit.
“In the first strike, 6,800 bottles were broken. The roof of the factory was blown off, and there was sun exposure to around 12,000 bottles. We have 5,000 liter containers – four of them were nearly full and a few had a little missing. Their caps blew off and we didn’t notice that until the wine smell spread and it was ruined.”
Maalouf estimated his losses at $375,000; no compensation was provided.
According to the Food and Agriculture Organization, the war hit more than 9,800 acres of crops and vineyards in Lebanon.
Some farmers are also worried that Israel’s use of white phosphorus would have a long-lasting impact on their soil.
To keep the business alive, Maalouf has opened up the winery for other ventures.
Wine lovers and restaurants can pay to make their own mixes from his grapes, or rent his equipment to make arak, a traditional Lebanese grape spirit.
The winemaker said he wants to stay in his homeland despite the challenges in the past five years.
“It’s a toxic relationship, if I can put it that way. It’s a one-sided love. The amount of love we have for this land, that’s how much we have to suffer its misfortunes.”
