9th March 2025 – (Hong Kong) The release of the 2025 Bib Gourmand MICHELIN list on 6th March brought both celebration and sorrow to Hong Kong’s culinary scene. Among the featured establishments was Sai Kwan Lo Jo, a takeout restaurant in Jordan, renowned for its affordability and consistent recognition on the list for three consecutive years. Yet, just a day after the announcement, the restaurant declared its closure on social media. This abrupt end has reignited discussions about the so-called “kiss of death” associated with Michelin accolades—a phenomenon where restaurants, despite achieving culinary acclaim, struggle to sustain their operations.
Sai Kwan Lo Jo’s story is emblematic of the broader challenges facing Hong Kong’s food and beverage (F&B) sector. Operating for four years, the restaurant weathered the harsh realities of the COVID-19 pandemic, including frequent street closures and plummeting revenues that sometimes dipped below HK$1,000 daily. In its farewell message, the restaurant reframed the “death kiss” as a “death hope,” expressing resilience in the face of adversity while acknowledging the decision to cease operations as a pragmatic choice.
Since the easing of pandemic restrictions in 2023, at least 11 Michelin-recommended restaurants in Hong Kong have shuttered, relocated, or changed ownership. Notable examples include D.H.K Seafood Restaurant, which earned its first Michelin star in 2023 but announced its closure the same day, and Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant 1948, a 77-year-old establishment that moved to a new location only to close shortly thereafter. While some restaurants, like The Demon Celebrity and Kwan Kee Store, have managed to reopen under new circumstances, the majority of Michelin-endorsed eateries have vanished from the scene entirely.
The closures have prompted a re-evaluation of the Michelin guide’s impact on Hong Kong’s culinary landscape. On one hand, the guide is celebrated as a trusted resource for food enthusiasts, elevating restaurants to international acclaim. On the other hand, it has been criticised for placing undue pressure on establishments, particularly smaller ones, which may lack the resources to scale operations or cope with heightened expectations and rising costs.
However, attributing these closures solely to the Michelin guide would be a mischaracterisation of the complex dynamics at play. The challenges faced by Hong Kong’s F&B sector are deeply rooted in the post-pandemic economic environment. The city has grappled with a confluence of factors, including sluggish consumer spending, increased competition from mainland China, and escalating rents. These pressures have created a precarious business landscape, even for restaurants with Michelin recognition.
For instance, D.H.K Seafood Restaurant’s management cited monthly losses ranging from HK$500,000 to HK$1 million as the primary reason for its closure, while Sun Yuen Restaurant, a 40-year-old establishment, attributed its decision to retire to the advanced age of its staff and the lack of a successor. These examples underscore the multifaceted nature of the challenges facing Hong Kong’s F&B industry, which extend beyond the realm of culinary excellence.
There is cautious optimism for the sector’s recovery though. The Restaurant Confidence Index in Hong Kong rose to 6 in the fourth quarter of 2024, driven by stable revenues from dine-in services and the growing prominence of food delivery platforms. The festive season provided a significant boost, with 61% of restaurants reporting stable or increased dine-in revenue during Christmas and New Year celebrations. Furthermore, the Lunar New Year and Valentine’s Day are expected to generate additional momentum, with 28% of restaurants planning special festival menus and 20% organising promotional events to attract customers.
The industry is also pinning its hopes on large-scale events scheduled for 2025, including the Hong Kong Sevens and major concerts, which are anticipated to stimulate consumer spending and bolster restaurant revenues. While challenges persist, particularly in terms of employment and service charges, government measures aimed at fostering economic development and market sentiment are expected to provide a much-needed lifeline.
In this context, the “kiss of death” attributed to Michelin recognition is likely to be a transient phenomenon rather than a permanent curse. As the F&B sector stabilises and adapts to evolving market conditions, the guide’s influence may shift from being a double-edged sword to a catalyst for growth. Restaurants that balance culinary excellence with strategic business planning are poised to thrive in this new era, turning the so-called “death kiss” into a symbol of opportunity and renewal.
