Hong Kong beauty
1. IT’S WHERE LOCAL MEETS LUXURY
Hong Kong might as well be the poster child for my column—it’s the epitome of “where local meets luxury.” As a case in point, I give you a tale of two massages. The first was at my hotel, the Four Seasons Hong Kong, renovated during the pandemic to retain its status as a venerable local institution. From the grand marble floors, to the fat pillow menus in each of its 399 rooms and 54 suites, to the 8 Michelin stars among its ten eateries—two of them for Lung King Heen, the world’s first Chinese restaurant to be awarded such an honor—the Four Seasons Hong Kong was more than equipped to have my jetlag dissipate by the minute via a glorious detox massage at its palatial spa.
Hong Kong noir
The next day, though, I met Gary. At a humble traditional massage parlor aptly called “FOOT,” he served me a reflexology treatment that felt supernatural—so supernatural that for the rest of the week I found myself squeezing in even a few minutes with Gary whenever there was a break in my busy schedule.
Cable Car to Lantau Island
Such are the joys of Hong Kong: you can eat delectable homemade tofu at a tiny hole-in-the-wall eatery that’s been serving it exactly this way for decades—then indulge in a tofu-driven feast at a chic, soy-based, Michelin-starred restaurant (more on that later). You can reckon with age-old soul and spirit at gorgeous temples—then contemplate futuristic beauty at one of the best contemporary art museums in the world (more on that later, too). You can pay homage to one of the biggest Buddhas ever crafted, on magnificent Lantau Island, then honor more contemporary shopping gods like Dior and Hermes. The alluring contrasts don’t stop there. Hong Kong is a place where the cityscape dazzles—behold the ultimate in noir-esque beauty, where each neon-drizzled angle is more cinematic than the next—but also a collection of lush green islands encircled by blue waters, oozing with hike-able beauty (the cable car to Lantau Island is one of the most transcendental rides you’ll ever take). It’s a place where a night on the town can mean beer and street food at Temple Street Market or hobnobbing with the cool kids at trendy Soho House (if you can hitch a ride with a member, that is).
2. EATS AND DRINKS
How many Michelin stars can you cram into a small territory? More than 200, apparently. In Hong Kong, eating and drinking are rigorous marathon sports—so prepare your appetite (and workout regime) accordingly.
perfection in soy at MORA
At the pinnacle of the modern end of the spectrum is Mora, a modish eatery that is soy-based—which does not mean vegetarian but does mean a lovely homage to tofu and soy-based products, all homemade with meticulous scientific rigor at the restaurant’s own factory. Two Michelin-starred chef Vicky Lau’s unforgettable offerings include bean curd tartlet with soy ricotta; pesto, local veggies and baby shrimp; roasted duck with smoked hard tofu and seven-spice duck jus (I dare you to determine which is the tofu and which is the duck); and tofu pudding with black rice soy ice cream and persimmon compote. Yardbird is a sleek, casual-chic izakaya specializing in yakitori, Japanese-style skewered chicken grilled over binchotan charcoal; don’t miss its uniquely constructed, obscenely fresh Caesar salad. The food at the uber-sexy Cantonese restaurant Ho Lee Fuk—yes, you read the name right—definitely induces joyful expletives: salt & pepper tofu; jicama and luffa dumplings; pork, prawn & baby abalone siu mai; sichuan pepper razor clams; Ho Lee Duck with Hoisin, leek, cucumber and steamed pancakes; perfect char siu, honey-glazed and charcoal-grilled.
Ho Lee Fuk: It’s Sexy
On the more casual but no less delicious end of the spectrum, do not miss the smooth-as-silk tofu pudding at the historic Kung Wo Beancurd or the prawn dumplings at Lau Sum Kee Noodle, made right before your eyes. And for a cross between the old and the new, Ladies Street Sik Fan Co is a vastly popular, creatively nostalgic nod to the Dai Pai Dong, open-air food stalls that served classic Cantonese dishes through the 70s and 80s. Your massive spread should include some of the best razor clams of your life.
The Spread at Ladies Street Sik Fan Co
Save room for cocktails—a veritable art form in Hong Kong, impressing even this on-the-rocks gal. Sleek Gokan on trendy Hollywood Road wowed me with such playful, utterly original offerings as General Tso’s cauliflower, with its hint of sichuan pepper, a shochu and grilled corn colada—there was just a perfect hint of pineapple—and a “roasted vege-roni” with beetroot, gin and yellow carrot. Fight the crowds to get into Bar Leone, this year rated number two in The World’s Best Bars and The Best Bar in Asia. There I savored the best martini of my life—filthy, with smoked olive brine—and paired it with focaccia sandwiches overloaded with prosciutto, as colossal as they were scrumptious. Back at my hotel, the award-winning, ever-whimsical Argo at the Four Seasons serves up a menu organized by the elements; try the Marigold Martini or the Bergamot and Wood Gimlet, which actually comes with side of moisturizer (I told you the place was whimsical!).
Creative Cocktails at Argo
3. THE HONG KONG WINE & DINE FESTIVAL
Given how seriously Hong Kong takes food and drink, I expected its annual Wine & Dine Festival to be gluttonously over the top. I was still blown away by it. More than 300 booths boasting food and drink offerings from 35 countries across five continents—from France, Italy and Spain to China, Australia, Chile, and Thailand—offer everything from ice wine, gin and pisco to abalone marinated in Chinese Moutai and fresh paella. It’s all set in a gorgeous harbor-front venue, encircles by mountains and sea, with a grand stage boasting nightly entertainment. The festival expands annually, this year spanning five days and attracting some 155,000 locals and visitors.
Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival
This year at the Tasting Theatre, celebrity chefs like Jacky Yu and James Beard Foundation’s Nancy Silverton led culinary workshops this year; author Anthony Giglio merged charm and well-honed wisdom at his wine tasting class. Hong Kong-themed limited-edition cocktails are served at the Harbour Lounge, hub of feted mixologists from around the world. And after the festival there’s yet more eating and drinking to do at the month-long “Taste Around Town,” featuring discounts, themed menus and special experiences at over 300 restaurants and bars across the city. Hopefully next year’s ticket comes with a free gym membership.
4. THE WEST KOWLOON CULTURAL DISTRICT
Just a few years ago, this district didn’t exist. Now, like a beautiful mirage, the West Kowloon Cultural District is a cultural hub and stunning natural respite in the heart of the city.
The landmark Hong Kong Palace Museum
I experienced little-girl glee at the M+ Museum, one of the best contemporary art museums I have ever delved into. Its profound collection of paintings, sculptures, ink art, installations and film-based art sagely, innovatively tackles themes of capitalism and global political decay. The crown jewel is Sun Yun and Peng Yu’s “Old People’s Home,” a life-size installation skewering contemporary country leaders that literally made me gasp. Get there in time for the “I. M. Pei: Life Is Architecture” exhibit, honoring a son of the soil.
After hours inside, ogle the matchless architecture of the nearby Palace Museum, stroll the beautiful trails and soak in some glorious views, Chinese ink paintings come to life.
5. CATHAY PACIFIC
Cathay Pacific isn’t an airline—it’s an experience. Before you even get on the plane from Hong Kong there’s the business- and first-class lounge experience, boasting “The Retreat,” dedicated to wellness and relaxation and featuring private day suites and massage treatments; The Tea House, with its interactive tea menu; and temperature-controlled cabanas with Travertine stone wooden floors.
This is an Airport Lounge? Cathay Pacific’s The Pier
In October the airline unveiled its much-hyped Aria Suite. I vouch for its obscenely comfortable bedding and divine cuisine—no surprise considering how many Hong Kong icons the airline has partnered with: Michelin-starred Duddell’s and French restaurant Louise, Italian eatery Pirata—and the list goes on. In 2026 Cathay Pacific launches John F. Kennedy International Airport’s new Terminal 6, with a 10,000-square-foot lounge offering direct access to all gates and leaving this New Yorker wondering: Can I book a flight to the lounge alone? It’s certainly worth it.