Alessandro Michele’s Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités collection for Valentino was unveiled at Paris Fashion Week to a star-studded, jam-packed front row. As expected, the collection leaned heavily into the designer’s signature maximalist, vintage-inspired aesthetic—tulle, ruffles, embellishments, florals, and a sense of whimsical theatricality, alongside lingerie-inspired pieces, and athleisure moments. But as with all things Michele, it takes the right person to pull off the look. And some attendees did so flawlessly, while others… not so much.
Whimsical maximalism at its finest
Chappell Roan was the standout in a Valentino Spring 2025 Haute Couture gown from the Vertigineux collection. The look was theatrical, over-the-top, and completely in her lane. She thrives in this kind of dramatic, larger-than-life fashion that demands presence. The volume, the tulle, the embellishments, the flowers, the bow, those puffy sleeves? Perfection. There’s truly no one else I can picture carrying this off with the same level of conviction. Alessandro Michele’s designs work when the right people wear them, and this was proof.
Vintage-inspiration that just makes sense
Speaking of those who just get Michele’s aesthetic, Alexa Chung is right at home in this world. Something about the vintage inspirations and the seemingly effortless, yet meticulously styled nature of the collection suits her personal style perfectly. While some might struggle with the haphazard layering and deliberate dishevelment, Alexa makes it look easy.
Reunited and (surprisingly) understated
Jared Leto and Alessandro Michele are back together, and it feels right. But I have to admit, I’m surprised by how relatively understated Jared looked here. A beige ruffled shirt, black trousers, and a tan wool coat? By his standards, this is practically minimalist. But the essence of their creative collaboration remains, and honestly, it’s refreshing to see him dial it down just a notch.
Two for two in Michele’s Valentino era
Following her quintessential Alessandro Michele moment at the Oscars, Charlotte Lawrence delivered another win in a red Valentino ensemble featuring a dotted blouse and ruffled peplum leather skirt. The look perfectly balanced edginess with femininity, and for once, I even buy into the accessories. She’s selling Alessandro Michele’s Valentino to me, and so far, I’m fully convinced.
A lesson in not letting an outfit wear you
Freen (Sarocha Chankimha) made her front row debut as Thailand’s first female Valentino brand ambassador, and she fully leaned into the quirky nature of the label. The accessories saved this look from veering into school-uniform territory, but it’s a reminder that Michele’s designs require a strong presence to carry them off.
Wrong era, wrong fit
Georgina Rodríguez, on the other hand, is not a natural fit for this iteration of Valentino. She opted for a fur-trimmed coat that channeled ’40s and ’50s glamour, but unfortunately, it aged her drastically rather than adding any modern intrigue. The quirky eccentricity of Michele’s Valentino just isn’t her style, and it shows.
Parker Posey understood the assignment
Parker Posey in Alessandro Michele’s Valentino? A thousand times yes. This chaotic, colourful, multi-patterned, mixed-media dress and jacket was made for her style personality. Some might see disorder, but Parker is likely to see it as just another day, and that’s exactly the mindset needed to pull off a look like this.
As expected, Valentino’s Fall 2025 collection isn’t for everyone—but when the right people wear it, the magic really happens.
Credit: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Valentino
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