You can understand why Andreas Murkudis, who runs one of the best specialty stores in Berlin, carries the clothes of AMC Aldo Maria Camillo, whose fit and attitude are carefully calibrated according to the unique characteristic of the fabrics, which are exceptional.
During his showroom presentation, the slender designer shrugged on a summer parka to show off the slightly pinched waist, the generous cut of the sleeves, the partially elasticated cuffs, and how the thick cotton with a slightly broken-in look responds to the touch – so much so that it can almost be molded.
“I try to be consistent season by season,” he said, referring to his penchant for slightly high-waisted and full-legged pants, and tailored jackets with a natural, lived-in shoulder line and an organic cotton lining.
Cognizant that consumers are tightening their belts, he also cut pants and jackets out of that ecru lining fabric to offer an attractive opening price – and a humble foil to pieces in more upscale fabric like heavy silk satin.
The designer continues to lean into a silky and lustrous regenerated polyester from Italian fabric house Olmetex for double-breasted jackets, trousers and zippered bomber jackets, this season offered in unusual colors like plum and café au lait.
Having honed his skills at brands including Valentino, Berluti and Cerruti before launching his namesake label in 2019, Camillo continues to focus on tailoring, his forte.
He once again repaired to his home and design studio in Fontainebleau to shoot the look book, which accentuates the appealing nonchalance and approachability of his tight offering of wardrobe essentials.
