Highlights And Ones To Watch

Veterans of London Fashion Week including Richard Quinn, Paul Costelloe, Toga, Edeline Lee, Roksanda, Ashish, Malone Souliers, Rixo and Kent and Curwen, were joined by many emerging talents this month, showing why the capital continues to be a thriving, exciting center of creativity and innovation. Here are just a few of the many highlights of the spring/summer 2026 collections that will be an influence on global fashion trends.

Patrick McDowell

It would be difficult to beat Patrick McDowell’s catwalk location at the Battersea Power plant. The 1930s Art Deco style Control Room A which helped manage the distribution of all of London’s electricity when the Power Station was operational made for an intriguing backdrop for McDowell’s sustainable designs. This was his first full ready-to-wear collection, following his bespoke and made-to-measure work for clients like Sarah Jessica Parker, Lady Gaga, and Keira Knightley. The recent Queen Elizabeth II British Design Award winner said the 1950s style collection with tailored suits and evening gowns was inspired by his “grandmother who used to make clothes for herself during the war, and smaller versions for her little sisters.” With a clear focus sustainability, the final look was a wedding dress made from five upcycled dresses from the 1950s.

Jawara Alleyne

“I’ve been thinking about the way you feel after a carnival or a good night out at the club. You start out with your look intact, but by the end you’re completely dishevelled. You don’t care though because the elation of an unforgettable night is all that matters — and that’s the feeling I’m trying to capture,” says Jawara Alleyne about his Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection. The Caymanian-Jamaican designer and artist has been creating thrilling designs after graduating from Central SaintMartins and launching his brand in 2021 under the FashionEast initiative. His show at the Institute of Contemporary Arts was a colorful parade of light chiffon, relaxed shirting and jersey, in a nod to Caribbean streetwear.

Edeline Lee

The Peninsula hotel’s ballroom provided a grand setting British designer Edeline Lee’s magical runway show that was inspired by 20th century traveling circus. The British-Canadian designer says she’s “always loved the romance and theatricality of the circus. Playing with its themes and the geometry of its motifs inspired experimentation with new volumes and structural techniques.” The circus is evoked in the new collection with detachable ruffled collars and silver sequins on beautiful statement dresses, all handcrafted in England in her east London studio, in a color palette of slate grey and vivid blue, carmine, ivory, pink and mint green. And this season the designer also presents her first knitwear collection, making use of its subtle geometric qualities and technical intricacy to create playful, contemporary twin sets.

Ashish

Ashish Gupta’s eponymous London-based fashion label is loved for bold, joyful colors and hand-embroidery with sequins and beads. His fashion shows are always a joyous occasion and his latest, on the final day of London Fashion Week was called “Fresh Hell,” a brilliant collaboration with performance artist Linder Sterling based on the concept of the final party of the world.

Johanna Parv

Johanna Parv’s minimalist ready-to-wear designs are super practical from the hybrid handbag-cum-backpack to the new folded bag, which can be carried over the shoulder or attached to a bicycle frame (hence the name, Frame). Action and protection are the two themes that drive every detail, from the lightweight, durable fabrics, to the adjustable elements and transforming silhouettes. A highlight from the new collection is a futuristic version of a “duster coat,” the long, beige outerwear originally worn by cowboys to protect their clothes on horseback. Also new this season is the use of linen, cotton and pinstripes.

Pauline Dujancourt

London-based womenswear designer Pauline Dujancourt blends knit elements and woven strips into her own fabrics, infusing movement into the drapes and lightness into the clothes. Collaborating with skilled female artisans around the world, the brand aims to empower them, nurturing independence and freedom.

Susan Fang

Susan Fang launched her eponymous label in 2017 following her graduation from Central Saint Martins. With a focus on perception and mathematics, each collection combines innovative textiles, colours, and silhouettes to create garments and accessories with artistic originality. The Barbican conservatory provided a green leafy setting for the ethereal designs, including her stunning signature Air-Flowers dresses created with multicolored striped tulle artfully gathered into delicate floral formations.

Tolu Coker

A film and static presentation in a chilled vast lounge with a DJ was an excellent way to see Tolu Coker’s latest designs. Her sustainable luxury fashion and lifestyle brand is influenced by her British-Nigerian heritage, family history of social activism and passion for social change. Her garments feature high quality tailoring over the brevity of seasonal fashion trends. A graduate of Central Saint Martins’ BA in fashion design and textile print programme, Coker launched her eponymous fashion brand in 2021, following several successful stints at J W Anderson, Celine and Maison Margiela and has since used it as a vehicle for creating equity and social change.

Agro Studio

George Oxby and Angus Cockram’s debut show, in collaboration with Fashion Scout, referenced tarot, the Joker and the contradictions of the modern age. Until now, Agro Studio was made-to-measure for music and film personalities. For their first ready-to-wear collection, couture ball gowns are paired with British school shirting, leather with tulle, shearling with technical fabrics. Agro Studio’s use of artisanal techniques ranges from traditional corsetry to leather craft and hand beading. Every piece is made in-house in the London atelier with some looks clearly inspired by Vivienne Westwood.

Sprayground

Another UK runway debut at London Fashion Week was American brand Sprayground, founded in New York City in 2010 by David BenDavid. The dramatic show at the historic Freemasons’ Hall featured 47 luxury streetwear looks including bold accessories, luggage and bespoke high-fashion pieces. The dual-gender collection included a preview of its upcoming partnerships with Porsche and the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. Launched into UK market this year and can be found in Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Fenwick.

Oscar Ouyang

One of British Fashion Council’s Newgen designers (supporting the best emerging fashion design talent), Oscar Ouyang’s gender-neutral fashion and knitwear, draws inspiration from military wear, nature, and edgy street style. The Central St Martin graduate’s debut runway show last week featured mulberry silk shirts, Fair Isle patterned vests and sweaters and waxed cotton jackets, each adorned with feathers.

Ginny Litscher

Designer and artist Ginny Litscher is known for transforming her intricate, large-scale artworks into luxury textiles, primarily silk. Every piece tells a story. Her new collection,“Tribe” was inspired by the heritage of tribal communities from the Native American plains to the Mongolian steppes. Vibrant colors and striking patterns echo traditional textiles, while earthy tones, fringe and leather add a pleasing tactile element.

Keburia

Georgian designer Keburia’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection combines the elegance of the past with the energy of a digital future, where Victorian heroines, military figures, and gaming avatars meet. Here, deconstructed military uniforms, Victorian silhouettes, and game-inspired costumes are transformed into contemporary fashion statements. Puffy sleeves and bubble shapes lend theatrical flair, while quirky ultra-micro shorts, boldly printed polos and hand-distressed denim infuse the collection with humor.

Karina Bond

Karina Bond continues to amaze with 21 ready-to-wear and couture designs featuring cutting-edge technology and artistry. The majority of the pieces are created entirely by hand using biocompatible, biodegradable TPU and PLA filaments drawn “from thin air” with a 3D pen. These zero-waste garments blur the line between sculpture and clothing. Highlights include the show’s finale, the “Desert Rose” dress. A development from last season’s 3D textiles which imitated fabric, this gravity defying dress is composed of over 5,000 individually hand drawn discs inspired by crystalline desert formations. Also new this season are accessories, including hand-assembled, 3D printed handbags and a collaborative jewellery line with Vicki Sarge featureing 3D-printed stones and intricate metalwork.

Noon By Noor

In a beautiful, salon-style presentation at Somerset House, Noon by Noor’s gorgeous new collection featured a color palette of white, pale gold, sand, desert khaki, Bahraini red and cherry blossom pinks. Each look featured lightweight fabrics that moved with ease, including blended metallic cotton mixes, cotton silk voiles, linens, silks, viscose silk, challis, silk chiffons and georgette. A raincoat with a macramé belt, flowing dresses, tailored shirts with jacket sleeves paired with shorts were strong looks.

Lueder

Marie Lueder’s latest designs shift between sculpted and oversized, playful and powerful. Bikinis, strappy tops, and maxi dresses appeared on the runway alongside outerwear with drawstrings. Recycled T-shirts and vintage football kits were reworked through shirring techniques, continuing the brand’s signature medieval-inflected sportswear. Textiles range from British-made waxed cotton, staple denim, and jersey to organic cotton knit, regenerated ocean plastic Nylon, and a custom flocked jacquard developed with Italian fabric house Pointex. The color palette is “muted doomsday Venice Beach” as shades of sunburnt asphalt, milky yellow, wine-stain red, charcoal black, camo green, indigo blue, rusty teal, bleached greys, and washed-out neutrals suggest both dystopian decay and sun-bleached vitality.

Maximilian Raynor

Maximilian Raynor’s London FashionWeek debut runway show featured a 1940s Royal Air Force pilot partying with 1960s Mods and a 1920s flapper girl. Another playful look included pyjama trouser hems knotted to paddle in cold Skegness waters plus odes to the designer’s grandmother’s home-made houndstooth coats, leopard shirts and mid-century twinsets.

Malone Souliers

Malone Souliers’ new shoe and handbag collection, a celebration of ’60s and ’70s-inspired freedom and femininity, was unveiled at Space House, offering a stunning 360-degree view of London.

Ella Douglas

Oxford‑born, London‑based emerging fashion designer Ella Douglas’s work is bold, narrative‑driven, and unapologetically subversive. Her handmade creations fuses industrial materials, intricate detailing, and automotive influences to create pieces that are both tactile and thought-provoking.