Fashion has always borrowed from Black culture. Our slang, our style, our innate coolness. But when it comes to credit, power, and leadership, Black women are routinely left out of the conversation. While white writers often glide into high-profile editorial roles with ease, Black women in fashion media face a different reality: one marked by gatekeeping, stagnation, and tokenism. We are the culture’s architects, yet we are rarely allowed to manage the blueprint. This inequity isn’t about talent but systems designed to uplift certain voices while sidelining others. In an industry that prides itself on trendspotting and progressiveness, its reluctance to fully embrace Black editorial leadership reveals a deeper truth, fashion media still has a race problem.
So, the question that keeps me up at night: what does sustainability look like for Black fashion writers and editors in an era where media is rapidly evolving? This isn’t about “saving” Black women but giving them the visibility and opportunities they deserve.
The shift from print to digital has disrupted traditional media hierarchies, yet Black women still struggle to access opportunities. Social media allows Black writers to self-publish, but it doesn’t always translate into stable careers. The rise of influencer culture has made bylines feel less valuable, yet we still fight for credibility.
How does this constant exhaustion affect us long term? Fashion psychologist Dr. Dion Terrelonge shared the following. “Continually striving but never quite catching up to an impossible and seemingly invisible standard in an industry that benefits from people who look like you may feel similar to the experience of being gaslit,” she shared. “You might find that you question yourself, your capability, your interpretation of events, reality, and at times feel hopeless and lack direction.”
Dr. Terrelonge also explained that this can be upsetting and discombobulating, and that leaks from the workspace can negatively infect your everyday wellbeing. “While some pressure can be motivating in short bursts, chronic feelings of needing to constantly prove your worth can wear down your mental and emotional health,” she added.
Reflecting on the psychological effects, the fashion psychologist named that such situations can lead to chronic stress and burnout as you overextend yourself to demonstrate value, to anxiety derived from internalized self-doubt, and over time, lowered self-esteem.
“If you are a person who draws strong links between their work output and sense of worth then you may be particularly susceptible to being overlooked because of the importance placed on external validity.” She noted that most people need some level of “external validity” to feel valued which is a basic human need. Yet this is something which may be lacking for Black women when not recognized for their work, according to Dr. Terrelonge.
Why Is Fashion Media So Gatekept?
Legacy media companies remain overwhelmingly white at the top, controlling who gets to write and whose narratives are amplified. Black writers are often called on for “diversity” pieces but are shut out from major fashion stories. Many Black journalists struggle to get invited to shows, events, and brand activations, limiting their ability to report firsthand.
Black women are also less likely to be promoted or given opportunities for career advancement in fashion media. This is due in part to the lack of representation in leadership roles and the prevalence of bias in hiring and promotion decisions. Because of this, we may have difficulty accessing resources and networks that are essential for career success. This can include mentorship, professional development opportunities, and access to influential people in the industry.
While we’ve seen an increase in Black women fashion editors like Samira Nasr, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar; Jessica Cruel, editor-in-chief of Allure and Self; Nikki Ogunnaike, editor-in-chief of Marie Claire, Kenya Hunt, editor-in-chief of Elle UK; Lindsay Peoples, editor-in-chief of New York Magazine’s The Cut, there’s still work to be done.
In 2023, Cruel told theGrio, “I’ve had the privilege of seeing change happen firsthand.” She added that at times she’s been the only Black editor or writer in a room, and it left her feeling like it was “hard to tell diverse stories” during her career.
When Black women are represented in fashion media, they are often tokenized, meaning they are the only Black person in the room or on the team. This can lead to feelings of isolation and pressure to represent the entire Black community. And post 2020, organizations’ dedication to DEI initiatives has dwindled, essentially repeating the cycle of Black folks being used and then abused.
The Pressure of Worthiness: Byline Culture & Validation
Black women are often made to feel like they have to work twice as hard for a fraction of the recognition. The idea that bylines validate Black writers’ expertise, yet many aren’t afforded the same career longevity as their white peers. Even after securing bylines, Black women still struggle with job security, pay inequity, and career advancement. The exhausting feelings of anxiety and self-doubt are all too common for us.
It’s disheartening that even after a decade of freelancing, I still struggle to gain access to certain opportunities. Now, I am going to say the thing I’m not supposed to say: What’s even more discouraging is that those who share my background aren’t always committed to pushing for greater diversity. It feels like they’d rather be the sole representative, which unfortunately creates a sense of exclusion and competition.
Again, I don’t want to be saved. I want be seen. Because while you may have one or two Black women writers on a team, there’s still divergence in our storytelling because our Blackness is not monolithic. Representation looks like true equity where Black writers have power, not just a presence.
It begs the question: why are Black women expected to break down barriers rather than walk through open doors? It feels hypocritical as fashion brands profit off Black culture, but Black journalists are often left out of the storytelling.
In the fashion industry, white writers often ascend rapidly into high-profile editorial roles due to inherited networks, institutional trust, and an assumption of cultural authority, while Black writers—despite shaping style narratives and driving global trends—frequently face stagnation and marginalization. Despite their influence, Black writers are often confined to race-specific topics, underpaid, and overlooked for promotions, further demonstrating that visibility does not equal equity in fashion media.
A 2021 pay equity study of 14 Gannett newsrooms found significant pay disparities for women and journalists of color. On average, women of color earned 73% of what white men earned, translating to a difference of $15,726. The report also highlighted the underrepresentation of experienced female journalists and journalists of color.
I have had this conversation countless times with peers in the industry. As a senior editor, Marsha Badger found herself pouring countless hours into producing trending news, exclusive interviews, and original stories—often clocking more than 100 hours per pay period to make ends meet. “Burnout became the ill-fitting coat I wore wherever I went,” she said, describing the emotional and physical toll of being underpaid and overextended.
Like many Black women in media, Badger also shouldered the weight of invisible labor, mentoring, advocating for diversity, and telling culturally significant stories with nuance and care. “Watching someone’s eyes light up because I accurately captured their experience makes me feel like a historian,” she explained. Today, she reclaims her power by setting firm boundaries and aligning only with brands that recognize her value.
Sustainable careers in fashion media for Black women require equity, access, and institutional shifts. It’s not about charity—it’s about giving credit and career opportunities to the people who have shaped fashion’s narrative for decades. We must challenge brands, publications, and gatekeepers to invest in Black talent rather than “perform diversity.” Because at the end of the day, this world truly does not move without Black women.
