Before Adidas Sambas (and Tokyos, and Taekwondos) were the trendy sneaker du jour, there were Stan Smiths. The clean, minimalist white sneaker with its sliver of green on the heel has been worn by icons across fashion, film, and politics—from Raf Simons and Victoria Beckham to Barack Obama, Sienna Miller, Katie Holmes, and Kate Moss.
Fashion fanatics may know it as the sneaker Phoebe Philo was photographed in during her runway bow in 2011 while overseeing Céline. Just this week, Pierpaolo Piccioli was pictured wearing Stan Smiths in his announcement as the new creative director of Balenciaga.
What is it about Stan Smiths that have caused them to have such enduring fashion appeal? First of all, it is classic in style and color. It’s neither too slim nor too bulky. It has a pristine white exterior save for just a sliver of Kelly green on the pull tab.
While the very first iteration of the shoe debuted in 1961 in association with another tennis star, Robert Haillet, Stan Smith came on board in 1973 to collaborate on the shoe we know of today (fresh off the heels of his Wimbledon win in 1972 and U.S. Open title in 1971).
Almost instantly, it became a hit on the court (after all, it is a tennis shoe), and, soon, off the court too. By the 1980s, the shoes became so popular worldwide that they sold 22 million pairs. In 2014, designer Raf Simons put his own spin on the shoes, as did Stella McCartney in 2018, who released the first vegan iteration of Stan Smiths. In 2023, Stan Smiths celebrated its 50th anniversary.
While so many shoe trends come and go, from Balenciaga’s chunky Triple S sneakers to the recent ballet sneaker trend, ultimately Stan Smiths have staying power because they are a classic and versatile shoe that goes with everything. Many fashion designers tend to keep their wardrobes on the minimal side, wearing various shades of neutrals (Piccioli paired his with a white tee and jeans; Philo chose a gray turtleneck and black pants). It’s no wonder Stan Smiths have become the fashion designer’s shoe of choice: They allow for an open slate, for the wearer to choose how to style them any way they want. And isn’t that the beauty of what you want from a sneaker?