Jun Takahashi Revisits the Past to Forge the Future
At Paris Fashion Week, Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER returned with a reflective yet forward-facing collection titled “but beautiful 4.5…” for Spring/Summer 2026. The presentation pulls threads from Takahashi’s iconic Fall/Winter 2004 “But Beautiful” series and reimagines them through a modern design vocabulary. In a way that only UNDERCOVER can, the SS26 menswear lineup doesn’t just reference itself—it rebuilds its own mythology, using memory and artistry as design tools.
This collection follows the conceptual echoes of the label’s recent womenswear offering for Fall/Winter 2025, suggesting a shared narrative across gender lines. But make no mistake: this new chapter carves its own identity through unique silhouettes, unexpected textures, and emotionally charged collaborations.
Layered Storytelling Through Structure and Detail
Across the 51-look lineup, Takahashi leans into the poetic and the abstract. Curved seams appear consistently throughout, creating fluidity where structure might usually dominate. These organic design lines add movement to garments while disrupting traditional tailoring in a way that feels deliberate rather than deconstructed.
Familiar UNDERCOVER motifs make subtle returns, but it’s the references to punk icon Patti Smith that underscore the emotional current of the collection. Lyrics from “People Have the Power” are emblazoned across select pieces, acting as a rallying cry and visual signature. Smith’s influence aligns seamlessly with Takahashi’s long-standing fascination with music and rebellion—both cornerstones of the brand’s DNA.
From oversized outerwear to sharply tailored layers, the silhouettes fluctuate in scale but remain balanced. Takahashi’s choice of muted palettes interspersed with pops of crimson and burnt orange reflect his command of mood. It’s romantic without being soft, structured yet weightless.
A Canvas for Collaboration
UNDERCOVER’s SS26 collection doesn’t live in isolation. Takahashi once again brings collaborators into the fold, using their unique voices to expand the conversation. This season features striking artwork from Welsh painter Emma Bennett, whose haunting floral imagery adds a layer of ghostly beauty. Bennett’s work threads through the collection like quiet interruptions—never loud, always evocative.
Longtime partners Champion and OTW by Vans return with updated takes that blur the line between sportswear and subversion. UNDERCOVER’s interpretations of the Slip-On and Sk8-Hi silhouettes showcase distorted proportions and unusual finishes, pushing the classic designs into unfamiliar terrain. The footwear merges effortlessly with the apparel’s conceptual framing, creating a seamless aesthetic experience.
One of the most surprising—and successful—additions this season is Dickies. The workwear brand makes its UNDERCOVER debut, offering pieces that have been completely reshaped through Takahashi’s lens. The juxtaposition of Dickies’ durable, utilitarian base and the graceful curvature of UNDERCOVER’s tailoring creates tension in all the right ways. It’s proof that the unexpected can be not only functional, but beautiful.
A Season of Reflection and Renewal
Rather than chasing trends or catering to fleeting moments, “but beautiful 4.5…” builds on the past to explore deeper creative territory. By reinterpreting a collection from two decades ago, Takahashi isn’t merely revisiting history—he’s challenging it. In the process, he’s created a new path forward, one that acknowledges where UNDERCOVER has been while embracing what’s next.
It’s also worth noting that the craftsmanship on display continues to defy categorization. These are not simply garments—they are vessels of thought, emotion, and experiment. Each piece tells its own story, but together, the collection reads like a poetic anthology stitched together with intention and heart.
What’s Next for UNDERCOVER’s SS26 Drop
Launch details for UNDERCOVER’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection are still under wraps, but fans can expect staggered releases across the first half of next year. The collaborative pieces with Champion, OTW by Vans, and Dickies are likely to arrive via select retailers and UNDERCOVER’s own channels, making them highly coveted for collectors and longtime followers of the brand.
Until then, the “but beautiful 4.5…” lookbook and showroom preview offer more than just a taste of what’s to come—they serve as a reminder that fashion, at its best, is an evolving conversation between artist and audience.
