We’ve reached the point in the year where the preliminary official CFDA New York Fashion Week calendar has been revealed. To experience NYFW is to immerse yourself in the non-stop energy that the city thrives on—slated for Thursday, September 11th through Tuesday, September 16th. Michael Kors will kick off the American Collections on September 11–the closing presentation has yet to be announced. In total, 60 runway shows and presentations will take place this season.
The upcoming season will include presentations from Black designers who are mainstays at NYFW, including Sergio Hudson, LaQuan Smith, Diotima, and Frederick Anderson. Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio returns to the calendar and will reportedly be presenting on September 11. Two exciting additions include Advisry, founded by designer Keith Herron (September 12), and California-based label House of Aama (September 14).
First-time additions to the NYFW schedule include 6397, Amir Taghi, Dwarmis, Lii, Maria McManus, Nardos, Raúl Peñaranda, Rùadh, and SC103.
Below take a look at each of the Black designers who are on the official NYFW calendar.
LaQuan Smith
The eponymous designer’s show will surely be one to look forward to. As a design house, LaQuan Smith unabashedly presents his take on attire fit for late-night functions and beyond. Vinyl trench coats and matching bustiers are pivotal to Smith. Each season, the designer also finds inspiration in the swift pace of New York City, which lends itself to creating clothing that strays into sensual territory. (The presentation date and time has yet to be announced).
September 11: L’Enchanteur
The twin sister duo behind L’Enchanteur are more than innovators; they’re also shape shifters. Whether designing garments or jewelry, their eyes are typically set on creating dynamic pieces. For their last presentation, which was hosted in Brooklyn, the duo showcased wearable art in the form of clothing and handcrafted jewelry.
Theophilio
Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio is largely associated with his Jamaican heritage. The designer’s separates which span womenswear and menswear, are a rallying cry for creativity by Caribbean talent. Much of his work centers around the idea of functionality and also play. Think dresses you can throw on for day parties or leather separates ideal for a myriad of settings.
September 12: Off-White
Off-White’s legacy was built by the late designer and mastermind Virgil Abloh. Currently the label is helmed by the creative director Ib Kamara. The varying styles released by Off-White toe the line between luxury and pieces inspired by pieces worn by well-traveled fashion peacocks spotted on the streets of New York City, Milan, and Paris.
Advisry
When one thinks of Keith Herron’s Advisory it might be difficult not to think of the fantastical designs Herron dreams up. In the past, varsity jackets and cargo pants have been the bread and butter of the brand. As time has stretched on, the designer has experimented with slim-fitting blazers and logo shirts.
Sergio Hudson
Former ESSENCE cover star Sergio Hudson is unafraid to push the boundaries between femininity and masculinity. Staples that the designer creates each season vary; however, he regularly sends office-appropriate pieces down the runway. Many of his collections also showcase items that women can lean on when they’re in a rut: stunning bustiers and decadent trousers.
September 13: Who Decides War
Created by Everard Best and Téla D’Amore, Who Decides War is well known for how it stays true to its roots. Streetwear inclinations have always guided the New York City-based label. Repurposed distressed denim has always been a staple for the brand which also tends to focus on emblazoned hoodies.
House of Aama
House of Aama was founded by mother-daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka. The label focuses on nostalgic pieces with historical context. The timeless designs highlight the storytelling that both Henry and Shabaka have mastered.
September 15: Diotima
Diotima by designer Rachel Scott has subverted the ideals often associated with designers who have Caribbean roots. Her designs focus on crochet and fine materials that can be worn year-round rather than sparingly for special occasions. Scott’s design prowess is impressive, especially given her lengthy career in Milan and New York as a consultant, designer, and executive.
September 16: Frederick Anderson
Frederick Anderson has been a staple in the NYC fashion community for over two decades. His eponymous label which launched in 2018 pulls from his design background at Douglas Hannant and Hanley Mellon. In the womenswear market, Anderson is beloved for his ability to convey his fixation on well-crafted ensembles created from a myriad of textures.
