LONDON — Remember Ryan Lo? The designer, who was considered one of London Fashion Week’s emerging talent highlights pre-pandemic, has finally released a new collection, his first since 2020.
Saying goodbye to wholesale, Lo’s spring 2026 collection adopts a bespoke model as the range puts a big focus on craftsmanship and exclusivity.
Retailing from 4,000 pounds for a proper evening ensemble, one can expect decadent layerings, embellishments and unmatched romantic energy.
Arranged in five parts, the lineup, which can be seen as a memory-refresher of Lo’s ultra-sweet aesthetic and his love for crochet, patchwork, smocking and anything pink, saw him reinterpreting nostalgic female archetypes, including princess, school girl, debutant, bride and housewife, through his signature crafty and romantic gaze.
There were organza gowns adorned with miniature pastel rosettes and puff-sleeve pink frocks with abstract floral appliqués for the princess. Striped acrylic cardigans embroidered with daisies, godet lace-insert skirts and slipdresses with raffia-trimmed hems lent themselves to schoolgirl looks. Meanwhile for the debutante, offerings included a hay-colored pussy bow evening gown with a matching straw lace-up corset belt, basket-weaving milkmaid outfits, glittery one-shoulder wraps, a smocking-tiered black long dress, and a tulle opera coat.
For the bride, he prepared a cream puff fishnet layered full skirt, a grosgrain ribbon crinoline and a floor-length tulle hooded cape. The Ryan Lo housewife, meanwhile, opted for tie-dye crochet tulip top and skirt sets, a fruit-decorated floppy sun hat, spaghetti strap apron dresses and a dégradé floral dress.
Ryan Lo
Getty Images
The Chinese-British designer, who was born in Hong Kong and later attended the London College of Fashion, was handpicked by Lulu Kennedy to join the Fashion East lineup for spring 2013 alongside Maarten van der Horst and Claire Barrow.
Three seasons later, Lo received a three-year full support from the British Fashion Council’s Newgen program and continued to show in London. In 2015, he was short-listed for the sophomore LVMH Prize alongside Virgil Abloh, Demna, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and that year’s winner, Marques’Almeida.
The designer moved back to Hong Kong at the end of 2019 and has been working behind the scenes till now.
“I realized no one’s doing what I’m doing. So I wanted to come out and tell people: ‘Hey, I’m still alive,’ and see what’s going on,” said Lo of his return, adding that there has been a deliberate shift in direction from the past for spring.
By working with stylist Leith Clark, who manages the fashion image of actors such as Keira Knightley, Andrea Riseborough, Lucy Boynton and Parker Posey, he wanted to capture timeless femininity and elegance, while moving away from the overtly cute image that he was remembered for.
“I know there’s cartoonish inspiration. That’s part of the DNA of the brand. But at the end of the day, I am offering timeless pieces that are for grown-ups. I like a more linear silhouette. To me, it’s always about the waistline. I know it sounds really dated, but it’s always about getting the guy in the end,” he added.
The designer believes that in a fashion world where naked dress has been dominating the runway, there is an underappreciated demand for the old-school sexy princess/baby rich girl look, especially in Asia, where cultural values align more closely with modesty and tradition in the occasional wear category.
Ryan Lo Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Courtesy of Ryan Lo
He has also been cultivating and tapping into China’s more and more sophisticated manufacturing capability. Lo travels across the border between Shenzhen and Hong Kong weekly to work with “a group of very passionate people who can tolerate constant changes in design” that works in the traditional bridal business.
“It’s a learning curve for both of us. At least in their mind, I’m doing something new and it’s quite exciting for them. They would never do smocking the way I want, or put five layers of fabric together,” he said.
Looking beyond his return to fashion, Lo said he still dreams about making a royal wedding dress at some point.
“I love Catherine, Princess of Wales. She’s the people’s princess of my generation. It would be the biggest honor to design a wedding dress for her daughter, Princess Charlotte,” added Lo.
