Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo
The fall shows in Europe saw abrupt changes from Prada, Balenciaga and Miu Miu, a move toward plainer clothes. Not so from Phoebe Philo. Her latest collection, which can be viewed online, is another building block in her original plan of creating a modern wardrobe. She remains focused on the real and simultaneously obsessed with the cool, and she makes that difficult balance look easy. It’s the basis of her influence — that and her actual invention of a style universe you want to enter.
What’s new in PhoebeWorld? Quite a bit. The clothing and accessories pictured here are part of a collection that will be available for sale from mid-summer through November, in staggered deliveries. She showed the collection in mid-January to store buyers and press. I saw virtually everything then, in a Paris showroom.
There are several key points of difference. One is the addition of more separates as Philo, now in her third year, fleshes out her wardrobe and continues to target casual dressing, whether for day or evening. The increase in separates will mean, in all likelihood, a more diverse range of prices. There are roomy, zip-up knit polo tops, in either pale yellow or taupe, and her now-classic poplin shirts with a more scale-down fit. One of the most striking looks is a long jersey skirt with a sweeping, asymmetrical hem and what looks like a soft, built-in panier.
One of the most striking looks is a long jersey skirt with a sweeping, asymmetrical hem and what looks like a soft, built-in panierCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
One of the most striking looks is a long jersey skirt with a sweeping, asymmetrical hem and what looks like a soft, built-in panierCourtesy of Phoebe …
One of the most striking looks is a long jersey skirt with a sweeping, asymmetrical hem and what looks like a soft, built-in panierCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
On its hanger, the skirt was a bit of a flop, but on a model, it came alive and looked amazing. The sculptural element is actually neoprene, to which the jersey has been heat-bonded. A number of designers this season, and during the January couture shows, showed skirts that had a crinoline or panier in the structure. Think of Ariana Grande’s undulating pink dress (from Schiaparelli) at the Oscars. Or the tubular waists at the recent Alaïa show. But Philo’s skirt has no structure as such. It’s just this pliable circle of neoprene covered in jersey. You can wear it with a t-shirt or, as Philo showed, with a polo or a tank top. To me, it’s a great way to interpret a historical style in a contemporary, practical fashion.
A panel of neoprene — again, bonded — also gave sculptural shape to the back of a v-neck gray jersey sweater.
Just as novel was Philo’s use of texture and color. When she launched her brand, in the fall of 2023, she made a statement with shaggy coats and pants. This time round, she’s offering a long tube dress in a fine white stretch knit with the upper portion knitted very densely with white sequins on an elasticated base. The rolled neck closes with magnets. What you can’t tell from the photo is that the bodice of the dress is open — a Philo touch of the unexpected.
She’s offering a long tube dress in a fine white stretch knit with the upper portion knitted very densely with white sequins on an elasticated baseCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
She’s offering a long tube dress in a fine white stretch knit with the upper portion knitted very densely with white sequins on an elasticated baseCou…
She’s offering a long tube dress in a fine white stretch knit with the upper portion knitted very densely with white sequins on an elasticated baseCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
Texture is also the story of a pair of robe-style coats in shaved shearling, along with a long, relaxed-looking silhouette. Both coats are pretty distinctive in a season loaded with shearling trimmed to resemble mink, but Philo’s tricolor version — black, cream, tobacco brown — features an almost curly texture on the brown portion and then heat press for a mottle look, and a velvety feel on the slightly belled sleeves. There’s also a trench coat in a gray and cream snake-patterned jacquard that was brushed to achieve a lush, blurry effect. That same blurry treatment was also given to classic checks and a glen plaid—for a shirt and Philo’s version of a kilt.
Philo’s tricolor coat features an almost curly texture on the brown portion and then heat press for a mottle lookA trench coat that was brushed to achieve a lush, blurry effectCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
Philo’s tricolor coat features an almost curly texture on the brown portion and then heat press for a mottle lookA trench coat that was brushed to ach…
Philo’s tricolor coat features an almost curly texture on the brown portion and then heat press for a mottle lookA trench coat that was brushed to achieve a lush, blurry effectCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
And there’s plainly more color in this collection — a brick tone for a new leather bomber (with pouch pockets), ginger, toffee and acid green (for black and green razor-pleated trousers).
A new brick colorA new ginger colorCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
A new brick colorA new ginger colorCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
Having influenced a lot of fashion with her sharp shoulders and high necks, Philo makes a shift in her tailoring. The newer suit look, shown with a sharply pressed tuxedo shirt in black cotton, is a boxier black jacket, also a bit shorter than her earlier styles.
Boxier shapes.
Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo
I didn’t quite understand a gray dress that combines a blazer with a long matching apron that is open in the rear, at least up to the hem of the jacket. That style seemed awkward, or anyway hard to imagine. (You put the whole thing on over your head.)
A leather jumpsuitA gray dress that combines a blazer with a long matching apron that is open in the rearCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
A leather jumpsuitA gray dress that combines a blazer with a long matching apron that is open in the rearCourtesy of Phoebe Philo.
Far more believable, and incredibly sexy—one of the best looks in the fall 2025 collections, in fact—was a sleeveless black leather jumpsuit, loose in fit, with deep armholes. It’s Philo’s emphatically cool answer to modern evening dress. Why not?
Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo
Just as smart and unexpected (and destined to be snapped up) were her “bumper booties” — black suede ankle boots with thick rubber soles and zips on top. Almost granny. She put them with styles high and low.
