Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Allison Bornstein, Christina Fragkou, Getty Images
Dear Allison,
I’d love to know how I can dress for my proportions in a way that feels modern and flattering. I’m petite, standing at five-foot-two, and I have a medium build with a curvier bottom half.
When I see pictures of models during their downtime, I too want to pair a neutral T-shirt with high-waisted pants. But when I try outfits like that, the same look doesn’t seem to translate from the five-ten-model inspiration — it looks boxier.
On the other end of things, I’ll go for an oversize button-down and feel like I’m swimming in fabric and hiding my body. How can I learn to adapt easygoing looks like these to my build?
Thanks,
A Little Confused
Hi ALC,
In my styling sessions, I work with many petite women who are like, “I can’t wear this because I’m too small.” I also meet women who are, like, five-foot-ten and who say, “If this were on a shorter person, it would look great, but on me, it looks off.” Just know that this is a universal concern and that, body type aside, anyone with great style takes the time to think through their looks and analyze proportions.
If you see an outfit photo you like and want to copy it, that’s great! But you should adjust the proportions accordingly. Since you’re petite, try mid-rise jeans instead of high-rise jeans like the pairs in your inspo photos. We tend to think in extremes — a really baggy top must be worn with super-skinny jeans and vice versa — but my advice is to think of it sort of like an equation. If your jeans are 75 percent oversize, try pairing them with a top that is 25 percent oversize, instead of one that’s skin tight.
Examples of proportionate looks on Allison Bornstein (left) and on the Bally spring 2025 runway (right). From left: Photo: Courtesy of Allison BornsteinPhoto: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Examples of proportionate looks on Allison Bornstein (left) and on the Bally spring 2025 runway (right). From top: Photo: Courtesy of Allison Bornstei…
Examples of proportionate looks on Allison Bornstein (left) and on the Bally spring 2025 runway (right). From top: Photo: Courtesy of Allison BornsteinPhoto: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Some of Bornstein’s favorite reference photos that showcase proper proportions. From left: Photo: Daniel Zuchnik/Getty ImagesPhoto: Christina Fragkou
Some of Bornstein’s favorite reference photos that showcase proper proportions. From top: Photo: Daniel Zuchnik/Getty ImagesPhoto: Christina Fragkou
Simply putting the clothes on your body is not enough. You have to do a bit of styling. Push up the sleeves of your white button-down or add a belt if you’re wearing a structured blazer. Going back to the jeans–and–T-shirt example, there are a lot of styling tricks to consider. If you want to accentuate your waist, tuck your shirt into just the front of your pants. To elongate your legs, choose a cropped tee that’s a little bit boxy; to elongate your torso, wear a longer shirt untucked.
Never underestimate the power of tailoring. I know it feels like an annoying extra step, but reframe it as part of the styling process. You should factor in the cost of tailoring when setting a budget for, say, a new pair of pants. Know that if you’re seeing a street-style photo of a celebrity or model, the pieces they’re wearing have probably been tailored to their body. It makes all the difference when it comes to proportions.
In terms of accessorizing: If you’re going to do less, each thing matters more. Take Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s style — even though her outfits were so minimalist, the clothes fit perfectly and the proportions were spot-on. You have to choose the right T-shirt, get the jeans tailored, and then maybe try an interesting pair of shoes. Keep the rest of the look simple: sleek hair and a cool pair of sunglasses.
I like to balance the amount of skin that’s showing, too. If you’re wearing a short-sleeved top or you roll up the sleeves of your jacket, opt for an open-toe shoe. That way, you’re showing a little skin at the top and a little skin at the bottom. This is especially helpful for petite women because, often, the fear is that you’re drowning in clothes. Showing a bit of skin can alleviate that.
— Your fashion friend, Allison
