From visiting the most secluded beaches near Arisaig in Scotland, right down to Woolacombe in North Devon and beyond, it’s safe to say I was a lucky kid being able to explore these places every summer before I had even learnt all my times tables.
I’ve even visited many coastal villages and towns too, such as Robin Hood’s Bay in North Yorkshire and Port Isaac in Cornwall – all these locations are probably why I’ve never been in a rush to jet abroad (that, and a dodgy inherited blood condition – thanks mum).
A love letter to Whitby – one of Britain’s best coastal towns
Yet there is one place that stole my heart around 10 years ago, which has since gone on to be hailed as one of Britain’s best coastal towns – my beloved Whitby.
@uktoday_ This is why Whitby in North Yorkshire is one of the UK’s most charming coastal towns 👀 Must-visit: Mr Cooper’s Coffee House and Magpie Cafe 🍽️ #whitby #northyorkshire #ukbeach ♬ Big Ocean – Neon Dreams & Frank Kadillac
I remember the first time I set foot in the fishing town and the inspiration for Dracula, it was after my dad randomly woke up one day and told me, my mum and brother to pack an overnight bag, ready for an adventure.
Being the age I was at the time, in my early teens, it felt like the most exciting thing to have ever happened – I almost still get goosebumps when I think of it.
I was asleep 10 minutes ago after watching Hannah Montana all night, and now I’m going on a mysterious holiday?
A few hours later, and after a scenic drive through the sea of purple heather across the North Yorkshire Moors, we arrived – but there was just one problem. We still had nowhere to stay.
Have you climbed up the 199 steps to Whitby Abbey? (Image: Molly Court/Newsquest) My dad is great at a lot of things (fixing everything I break, being my personal taxi when I visit home), but being able to hunt down a last-minute hotel room or a night in a quaint holiday cottage at a bargain price is just one of them – and that’s exactly what he did.
Once we secured Perkins Cottage – a three-storey fisherman’s cottage hidden down a pretty alleyway, with all the quirky features you could expect to find, we began wandering around.
I don’t think it took longer than five minutes to fall in love with Whitby. What followed was a day of exploring the endless independent shops, cafes, and restaurants located on the iconic cobbled streets, as well as hours running wild on Cliff Beach.
Whitby was where I had my first ever Millions (bubble-gum) flavoured milkshake, the first time I had my hair braided like my school friends did in Spain, the first (and not the last) time I wolfed a tray of cockles.
Best-Rated UK Beaches for 2025 – TripAdvisor Rankings
We even climbed the 199 steps to Whitby Abbey, and admired the now very recognisable row of pristine rainbow coloured beach huts sitting neatly below, after stopping off at the world-famous Magpie Café.
In fact, we loved it so much, we ended up staying for another night, and what followed was many more treasured visits to Whitby as the years went by.
But as I left school, started college and moved away for university, Whitby became a distant memory.
Since then, it’s been praised by travel experts from the likes of The Times and The Telegraph and it’s won endless awards for best fish and chip shops (shoutout to Trenchers) and even been named as a Blue Flag beach.
So this year, now my partner and I have our own car, I decided it was time to head back as I wanted to show him all the places I’ve jabbered on about ever since we met (a staggering nine years ago).
I had forgotten just how beautiful the drive is, especially when the sun comes out to say hello, from passing villages in the Yorkshire Wolds, including Wetwang, through Pickering and past Goathland in the North York Moors.
As always, it was tricky to park once we arrived, but with a little bit of patience, we secured a spot by the harbour, just like my dad used to.
I stepped out of the car and instantly started to tear up. It was like nothing had changed at all, and I was 13-year-old Molly again.
The fishing boats were still bobbing, children were still catching crabs in their buckets, the famous pirate ship had had a glow up, and the seagulls were still stealing fish and chips – home sweet home.
How do you spend a day in Whitby? The most beautiful spot that beats the crowds
We hadn’t eaten all morning, so to ease the stomach rumbles, we headed to Mr Cooper’s Coffee House, a place I’ve had my eye on for a while (and it’s dog-friendly).
We both had an iced caramel latte, I had a salmon and cream cheese bagel, which I’m pretty sure had half a tub of Philadelphia on it, but was divine nonetheless.
The staff even brought out a little wooden tray with tiny Jammy Dodgers on it and a biscuit for my dog.
My partner wanted to save his appetite for Magpie Café, but first, we went for a wander through the cobbled streets. I pointed out all the quirky shops that were still here a decade later, and then we went to my favourite spot, which can be found down the hidden steps next to The Duke of York.
There’s a small beach here for dogs and plenty of comfy benches for humans, it’s the perfect place to take in a glorious view of the harbour, across the way to the fisheries and arcades, up to Whitby Abbey and out to sea – all while basking in the late summer sun.
A short while later, after putting the world to rights (what is it with spots like these that make you think deeply?), we went back up the steps and over the bridge to Magpie Café.
As always, there was a queue at the main restaurant, but it’s staggering how fast it goes down, yet we always planned to have fish and chips from the takeaway hut next door, as I’ve honestly thought about eating a chippy tea on Whitby’s pier for the last decade.
My partner had never tried fish and chips from Magpie Café, nor knew of its fame, and as someone who might be the fussiest eater on the planet, he didn’t shut up about how crispy the cod was, so I call it a success, and it’s clear why its title remains.
It was here that it dawned on me, as I looked back towards the town centre from the edge of the pier, that Whitby really is still one of the UK’s most charming coastal towns after all these years of visiting.
I think it’s a UK seaside spot that has it all, the beach is more than inviting, quality fish and chips, pubs and independent cafés wherever you go.
It oozes escapism and around every corner, there is something worth discovering for the first or fifth time.
Recommended reading:
Amongst the crowds, Whitby’s history still shines through, from the abbey up on the cliffs to the legendary fishing activity down below.
No matter how big a tourist attraction Whitby has become (let’s just say it was a lot busier than I remember), the people at its centre will always welcome you with open arms.
Until next time, Whitby, thanks for giving little Molly her most treasured memories.
