Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Courtesy of Allison Bornstein
Before fashion months are wrapped in a pretty little bow — introduced to the world on social media via highlight reels, short Instagram carousels, and digestible trend reports — buyers, editors, and stylists spend their time sifting through hundreds of collections and coming to their own conclusions about what worked and what did not. “Fashion felt a little less homogenous then because everyone had different perspectives on the shows,” says stylist, wardrobe consultant, and author Allison Bornstein, thinking back to the beginning of her career. “It was really about studying each look and distilling what I liked about it and what I thought the trends were going to be.” These days, though, collections are presented in a way that feels more curated — even Vogue runway images are usually accompanied by a review.
From the fall collections, Bornstein has picked out a couple of looks that she likes: the return of boho chic at Chloé, exaggerated coats at Givenchy, oversize belted bombers with shoulder pads at Saint Laurent, and a polka-dot dress at Balenciaga.
From left: Photo: BalenciagaPhoto: Chloé
From left: Photo: BalenciagaPhoto: Chloé
Bite-size social-media recaps make runway collections more accessible, sure, but they can also limit creativity because there is less room for interpretation. When everyone is referencing the same few runway looks or trends (the ones that went viral on social media or were deemed most significant by influential fashion people), is it even possible to find inspiration that aligns with your personal style? Bornstein says the answer is “yes’ — it just takes some effort.
Bring back critical-thinking skills! Bring back original thoughts! Seriously, though. Social media is so influential and can sway your opinions without you even realizing it’s happening, which is why you absolutely must see the source material. Most designers livestream their fashion shows and post photos of the collection on their website in real time, so check those out before checking to see what your favorite content creator, fashion critic, or news outlet says about a collection. I promise, Cathy Horyn’s reviews will be even more interesting and enlightening if you develop your point of view before reading them.
You don’t need to become a trend forecaster every time fashion month rolls around. And, actually, if your sole focus is extracting trends or themes or through-lines in the collections, it could negatively impact your personal style. Instead, Bornstein recommends picking three to five of your favorite looks from collections that interest you, then adding them to your mood board. Personal style is all about trusting your gut, so screenshot the looks you immediately gravitate toward — the ones that make you say “ooh, ahh!” the second they hit the runway. Your mood board could be a new album on your phone, a Pinterest board, or even a physical poster board if you are feeling crafty — the medium doesn’t matter as long as the content on the board resonates with you. “I guarantee those images will tell you something about what you’re craving and what you want to wear,” she says.
Is it the silhouette? The way it’s styled? The colors? The hair and makeup? Dive deep here; try to figure out what is making you gravitate toward each look, Bornstein says. Jotting down a few words that come to mind will make this process easier (for example, rounded-toe shoes, sharp shoulders, wide-leg pants, pushed-up sleeves, etc.). She also suggests using the fashion calendar to your advantage. The industry is always one season ahead, which means you’ll be building your spring-summer mood board in September and October, and fall-winter mood board in February and March. That gives you ample time to marinate on them and see which items you really love. Let’s say you add a fabulous pair of sandals to your board in September; if you still love them come April, when it’s finally time to shop for warm-weather clothes, that’s probably a sign that you should invest in them.
Before you start trying to pull inspiration, remind yourself that fashion shows are exactly that: shows meant to entertain. Most looks you’re seeing on the runway are not presented in a way that’s realistic. Individual ready-to-wear pieces that go into production are practical and wearable, sure, but the head-to-toe look is usually not. (And, I mean, who is actually buying the full look anyway?) “They are not designed for most people’s lifestyles, and none of us have the body type that is often shown on the runways,” Bornstein says. “The shows should be a jumping-off point. Always tweak the looks to fit our own proportions.” So what does this look like in practice? Finding inspiration from individual pieces instead of the full look. Once you have identified why a certain runway image is resonating with you, zero in on your favorite piece, whether it’s the jacket, a pair of pants, an accessory, or something else. Bornstein used the example of this blazer dress from Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy last month to illustrate her point.
Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy
Since the dramatic, structured shoulders are really the star of the show, try to find a blazer with a similar shape instead of a blazer dress. That way, you can balance out the bottom half of the look with wide-leg trousers or your favorite pair of jeans to make it more flattering, proportionate, and wearable. When finding inspiration from fashion shows, Bornstein says the essence of the look — whether that’s the color story, the silhouette, or the overall aesthetic— is more important than the look itself.
If you want to evoke the essence of your favorite show without spending a dime, focus on the styling. Small details that you’ll often see on a runway — such as sleeves pushed up to the elbows, hair tucked into a coat or turtleneck, or bracelets styled over the cuff of a jacket — are great ways to infuse more personal style into your outfits without expanding your wardrobe. Prada and Miu Miu shows, in particular, will provide loads of styling inspiration, Bornstein says. The past few seasons have featured interesting hair tucks and colorful sock-and-shoe combinations.
From left: Photo: Courtesy of PradaPhoto: Courtesy of Miu Miu
From top: Photo: Courtesy of PradaPhoto: Courtesy of Miu Miu
