The evolution of fashion—from offering comfort and security in 2020 during the uncertain early days of the pandemic to becoming an expression of joy and freedom in 2022 as consumers emerged from lockdown—perfectly illustrates how trends capture the zeitgeist. Denim, with its deep ties to cowboys, James Dean, and counterculture movements, frequently offers a window into the mindset of youth. From its rise as a symbol of teenage rebellion in the ’50s to its role as a canvas for political expression in the ’60s, and later its embrace by ’90s hip-hop culture, denim has consistently been at the forefront of shaping cultural identity.
Fashion responds to social shifts, but what happens when there’s no time to pause and take stock of unprecedented events? And how do brands navigate self-expression during a time of extreme divisiveness?
“We have been in a cycle of unprecedented times for some years now, the times just keep getting more and more unprecedented,” said Amy Leverton and Shannon Reddy of the consultancy, Denim Dudes. “Some socio-political figures are estimating that we are witnessing what is known as an ‘extinction burst’ which sounds terrifying, but for the more optimistic, it actually points toward the idea that what we’re seeing socially, politically and economically is the last major grasp at outdated ideologies and systems, and the tension we’re experiencing is essentially the growing pains before a transformation for the better.”
This ideology is being applied to fashion as well, from the creation of new supply chains and the decline of aspirational purchases from luxury brands to consumers investing in one-of-one, small-batch designers that support individualistic style instead of viral micro trends. As news cycles, global affairs, legislation and technological advancements become overwhelming, Denim Dudes said consumers are retreating from the expectation to keep up with it all and turning their attention inward toward themselves and hyper local communities.
“Denim, at its core, has always been a mirror of societal shifts—whether it’s rebellion, resilience or reinvention. In a world currently on fire, denim won’t stay untouched. Denim has always absorbed the world’s tension and transformed it into wearable narratives,” said Sinem Celik, Bluprojects sustainability expert.
From an industrial and business perspective, Celik said global crises will push the denim industry in two main directions that will disrupt supply chain structures. “Political instability, trade restrictions and resource shortages will force brands to rethink supply chains. We need to expect more localized and close market production hubs to reduce reliance on unpredictable global markets,” she said. Secondly, brands are examining deadstock and circular denim solutions. Celik said these solutions will shift from niche to mainstream as businesses grapple with rising raw material costs and sustainability mandates.
“Nowadays, amidst conflict, fashion is trying to balance between function and expression,” said Ana Paula Alves de Oliveira, founder and strategic director of Be Disobedient, a denim and creative consultancy company.
Recent examples of street style reveal a shift toward denim with extreme silhouettes, DIY details and brash washes—perhaps a sartorial cry for help or a declaration of non-conformity in the wake of more demure trends like quiet luxury and trad wife. “We see distressed finishes, dirty dyes and worn-out textures evoking survival, alongside upcycling and material reuse as a response to scarcity. Simultaneously, deglobalization fuels a return to local craftsmanship, merging tradition with innovation. The industry is not just adapting; it’s redefining sustainability through necessity,” Alves de Oliveira said.
Street style during Paris Fashion Week.
Denim Dudes sums up this feeling of global tension and polarization in Superpower Pivot, a Fall/Winter 2025-2026 theme that places designers’ heritage, opinions and experiences front and center.
American Sabotage—the brand AWGE, A$AP Rocky’s creative agency, presented at Paris Fashion Week Men’s last summer—is a visual example of the trend, Denim Dudes said. The collection featured American flag skirts, U.S. Marine jackets with restrictive silhouettes, and jeans with stacked waistbands.
“In the past we’ve seen brands, artists and consumers shy away from directly referencing political stances and letting their work speak and be interpreted for itself. Creatives are now not only directly vocalizing their viewpoints through their work, but they are also commandeering iconography typically associated with opposing viewpoints and re-writing the narrative around it and what it could represent in the future,” Denim Dudes stated.
The runway is an ideal stage to bring stories to life. GmbH founders Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby explore their heritage as Muslim immigrants in Germany in collections. Denim Dudes noted how they’ve been vocal about their heritage and beliefs when putting on runway shows, even aligning with the United Nations a couple of seasons ago. Mexican American designer Willy Chavarria played the audio of Bishop Budde’s sermon at President Trump’s inauguration during the finale of his Paris show in January, “giving grace and power to the immigrant and queer community,” Denim Dudes said.
Designer Willy Chavarria
“Fashion can be a really rich vehicle for symbolism and social signaling; these designers really lean into their platform in order to invoke positive change and unity in a time of division,” Denim Dudes said.
Christine Rucci, denim expert and founder of Godmother NYC, Inc., is less impress with recent efforts to subvert. “I think the division of runway, luxury, and streetwear has been blurred,” she said, adding that most fashion houses are making inauthentic dupes of denim worn by youth culture or made by small designers.
What it lacks, she said, is the outspoken political activism of designers like Katherine Hamnett, Vivienne Westwood, Claire McCardell and Franco Moschino.
Alves de Oliveira argues that disruptive fashion can be subtle. Stella McCartney seamlessly blends sustainable materials with red carpet-worthy designs, with the only noticeable clue of the designer’s passion for the environment being the adorable animals featured in her ad campaigns.
“In this century, Stella McCartney is the undisputed leader in turning fashion into a manifesto for innovation and sustainability. She has set the standard for how responsibility, ethics, and creativity can coexist, proving that well-communicated values become powerful industry drivers,” Alves de Oliveira said.
On the other hand, Alves de Oliveira said Ukrainian denim designer and Adidas collaborator, Ksenia Schnaider, embodies resilience as her country remained embattled in a war with Russia. “Operating between the U.K. and Ukraine, her brand transformed crisis into strength, proving that fashion can be a direct response to geopolitical reality,” Alves de Oliveira said. “Both illustrate that transparency, honesty, and purpose are not just possible, they are essential. And both are women, which speaks volumes.”
Look from Kseniaschnaider
Off the runway, social media has become the de facto platform for brands to address social and geopolitical issues.
In 2022, following the U.S. Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe v. Wade, several women’s denim brands took to social media to voice their opposition. Brands like Good American, Frame, Citizens of Humanity, and Madewell publicly expressed their dissatisfaction with the ruling and shared resources advocating for reproductive rights.
Under Chip Bergh’s leadership as president and CEO for 12 years, Levi Strauss & Co. (LS&Co.) emerged as one of the fashion industry’s most outspoken advocates, championing causes such as gun violence awareness, reproductive rights protection, voting rights protection and LGBTQIA+ equality. “Saturday Night Live” poked fun at the denim giant’s wokeness in 2017 with a spoof ad featuring cast members dressed in ill-fitting gender-free jeans. The company also regularly faced backlash from the NRA for its left-leaning opinions on guns. In an exit interview last year with Sourcing Journal’s sister publication WWD, Bergh said, that “navigating divisiveness” and geopolitics had made his job more challenging.
LS&Co. has seemingly stepped off the proverbial soapbox since Michelle Gass’ takeover in early 2024, choosing to focus on more bi-partisan topics like voting registration, and promoting its nostalgic ad campaign with Beyoncé. However, the company did shut down efforts to dismantle its DEI program at its annual meeting last month when the National Center for Public Policy Research, a conservative think tank, submitted a proposal calling for LS&Co.to “consider abolishing its DEI program, policies, department and goals.”
Less than one percent of the company’s shareholders voted in favor of the proposal.
“Brands are becoming more selective in their activism, navigating hyper-polarization and economic risks. While Levi’s may no longer make sweeping statements, its commitment is evolving—moving from loud declarations to tangible actions,” Alves de Oliveira said. “The key is authenticity. Empty messaging is no longer enough; brands that align their actions with their values will remain relevant and influential.”
Celik anticipates that there will be some disruption on the branding and marketing off and greater shift toward activism and transparency. “More brands will align their messaging with socio-political themes, positioning denim as a statement—whether through war-time aesthetics (military-inspired, patchwork, survival gear) or messages of unity and resilience,” she said. “Transparency will become non-negotiable. With heightened consumer awareness, brands will be forced to show proof of ethical labor practices, material sourcing, and true circularity rather than just greenwashing.”
Indeed, turmoil is not a time for brands to fly under the radar or abandon activism in it’s many forms. Target, which announced in January that it would end its diversity, equality and inclusion initiatives, has become a target of a 40-day boycott, a lawsuit from shareholders and a diatribe of comments on their social media accounts. Over the last 12 months, Denim Dudes said there’s been an unprecedented amount of brand and product-specific boycotts, mindful purchase worksheets going viral on social media, and an uptick of content focused on ethical retailers to support, and ones to avoid.
Instead, Alves de Oliveira said companies must learn about the issues that affect their customer base, engage with consumers through authentic dialogue, and practice active listening. “Those who do will not only remain relevant but will also shape the industry’s future,” she said.
In an era of heightened visibility and exposure, where social media amplifies calls for cancellation into powerful nationwide boycotts, and tolerance for differing views continues to diminish, Alves de Oliveira remarked that every statement now carries a double-edged sword. Yet, she emphasized, “Avoiding reality is not neutrality; it’s willful blindness.”
“Fashion has always been a means of communication, and denim is not an exception. In times of crisis, brands with a solid audience have the opportunity and responsibility to foster meaningful conversations,” she said.
This article is published in SJ Denim’s spring issue. Click here to read more.
