At the Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2025-2026 show, Anthony Vaccarello made a radical creative shift and closed Paris Fashion Week in style.
A creative shift at the Saint Laurent show
Reinventing oneself while preserving one’s identity is the challenge every fashion designer must embrace with each new collection. And it’s a challenge that Anthony Vaccarello met brilliantly with the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 show, unveiled this Tuesday, March 11, 2025. Closing Paris Fashion Week for the first time, the Belgian designer left an unforgettable impression on this Autumn-Winter 2025-2026 season—confirmed by the enthusiastic applause that marked the finale.
In recent weeks, the wave of artistic directors reshaping the industry has been a stark reminder that no one is immune to abrupt departures. Yet, Anthony Vaccarello’s position at Saint Laurent remains unshaken. His creative evolution—bold yet subtle, daring yet flawlessly controlled—cements his status as one of fashion’s leading visionaries.
A man of few words, Vaccarello lets his collections speak for themselves, transforming his shows into Fashion Week’s most striking moments. His signature lies in immersive scenography, where curved shapes evoke a sense of perfection and infinity, and in enveloping, hard-hitting soundtracks composed by Sebastian.
His Saint Laurent collections stand out for their clarity, often focusing on just two or three key silhouettes—without a single handbag in sight, a bold departure in today’s luxury landscape. This minimalist rigor reflects the relentless pursuit of an ideal, elevating fashion to the realm of art.
Last night, an imposing onyx oval set the stage, reinforcing the collection’s mineral and timeless essence. Between unfathomable depth and sleek surfaces, the space echoed the collection’s duality: austere in appearance, yet rich in complexity.
Radical fashion for winter 2025
Taking the opposite view of his previous show and its men’s suits, Anthony Vaccarello imagines a glamorous and minimalist collection for winter 2025. But Saint Laurent way, of course! Here, each piece seems to be cut in a single stroke, without unnecessary frills. Also, there are no superfluous ornaments or accumulation of textures: the cut and construction are enough to give shape and volume to the silhouettes.
Faded denim skirts, worn with leather jackets, play on an ambiguity between casualness and rigor. The concise overcoats, in the house’s signature saturated hues, infuse graphic energy into the wardrobe. Anthony Vaccarello also works with materials with a new technical approach: stretch fabrics combined with guipure, cigaline silk printed and then immersed in silicone, thus offering an intriguing patina to the pieces.
In contrast to the purity of the clothes, the accessories claim a certain baroque. Pointed shoes are adorned with a square satin rose, while jewelry made of rock crystal – Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite stone – adds a mystical touch. Finally, this entire Saint Laurent collection plays on a contrast between structural rigor and diffuse sensuality
