Carbon emissions from the global fashion industry rose in 2023 for the first time since 2019, according to new data from the Apparel Impact Institute (AII).
The nonprofit dedicated to supporting decarbonization of the fashion industry looked at greenhouse gas emissions data across the apparel sector for its “Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero 2025” report. According to AII’s analysis, global emissions for the apparel sector increased by 7.5 percent over the previous year to 944 million metric tons, or roughly 1.78 percent of all global greenhouse gas emissions.
Textile processing—which includes production and finishing—remains the largest culprit, accounting for 55 percent of emissions in 2023, followed by material production at 22 percent. Raw material processing accounted for 15 percent of emissions, while finished production assembly contributed 8 percent to emissions.
AII attributed the increase in emissions primarily to the growth of polyester fiber usage, which made up 57 percent of total global fiber production and requires more resource-intensive processing. The group suggested that the proliferation of fast fashion could be driving that demand.
In 2021, AII and the World Resources Institute (WRI) published the report, “Roadmap to Net Zero: Delivering Science-Based Targets in the Apparel Sector,” which outlined steps the apparel sector must take to reduce emissions in line with a 1.5 degree Celsius pathway (keeping earth’s temperature increases to no more than 1.5 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels). Based on those calculations, AII and WRI pledged to reevaluate emissions data yearly to gauge progress on the goal of reducing emissions by 45 percent from 2019 levels by 2030.
To calculate emissions for 2023, AII started with fiber weight data from the Textile Exchange’s Materials Market Report 2024, which outlines global production weights of various fibers and materials used in textiles, such as cotton, viscose, polyester, nylon and others. For each fiber type, AII multiplied total fiber weight by greenhouse gas emission factors for processing stages, including farming, spinning, weaving, coloring and finishing.
The report estimated that with business-as-usual growth for the sector, emissions are expected to be 1.243 gigatons (Gt) in 2030, reflecting annual growth rates of 5 percent for synthetics and manmade fibers and 1 percent for cotton and other natural fibers. To stay within a 1.5 degree Celsius trajectory—achieving a 45 percent reduction by 2030—the sector would need to reduce emissions from 0.944 Gt in 2023 to 0.489 Gt by 2030.
AII pointed to several challenges that may hinder progress on decarbonizing the apparel sector, including scant access to funding for manufacturers to invest in energy efficiency and renewable energy, high-cost coal alternatives, limited options and availability of sustainable materials and other roadblocks. AII also pointed to overconsumption of ultra-fast fashion brands such as Shein, as a major hindrance in reducing the environmental impact of the apparel industry.
That said, the report also highlighted some reasons for optimism. A number of brands such as H&M, Puma and Zara (and its parent, Inditex) reduced their Scope 3 emissions over the past few years, and other companies such as Elevate Textiles, Artistic Milliners and MAS Holdings significantly cut their Scope 1 and 2 emissions.
Going forward, AII said brands and retailers will need to act together on several points to make positive progress in decarbonization, including making financing part of the strategy, aligning sourcing with ambition, adopting cost-saving solutions, engaging in structured climate programs and rewarding emissions reduction.
“Many stakeholders are already putting these practices into place, but progress is still too uneven across the sector,” the report said. “Now is the time to move from isolated leadership to industry-wide alignment.”
