In Paris for the women’s spring/summer 2026 collections, freedom was felt. It was important for me to attend this season because getting to experience the shows and see the clothes in real life helps me understand the energy these collections carry.
This season, creative directors let go of constraints and allowed for fun to take over. From Dario Vitale of Versace’s use of bold colors, embracing a completely new direction for the house. To Dior and Jonathan Anderson’s exploration of the past, present and future and the way he always incorporates quirky details in his accessories. Or Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel, which introduced a new language while paying homage to the house’s foundation.
We are living in violent times with so much censorship around storytelling that it’s vital to have a medium like this dedicated to expression and beauty. This season felt like a celebration because of the surge of new creative directors and new ideas, and we’ve needed this newness for a long time. These collections spoke to me in a way that celebrated women, their power and sexuality.
Dries Van Noten
Sept. 30, 4 p.m.
I am always moved when there is an element of what I like to call “Hard-Soft” in collections — which is what I saw in the sharp tailored jackets styled with flowy dresses and how every gown was styled with sneakers — and that was the energy at Julian Klausner’s women’s collection for Dries Van Noten. The vibe was introduced with men’s earlier this year and it continued with women’s, from the wrestling sneakers to the bold colors and prints, plus sequin and crystal elements. From the show notes: “Watching the sunset on the beach, observing surfers in the waves, I was struck by how elegant the silhouette of a wetsuit is. A moment both simple and grand: the sky filled with colour, shapes that appear, contrasts of a stiff board against the delicate ruffles of foaming waters, and the shimmer of sun on them. The freedom of cruising on the waves, feeling the breeze and winds of the sea: a dance with nature.” You saw the waves in the small ruffles paired with structured silhouettes. I’m looking forward to more of Julian’s journey at Dries.
Dior re-see
Oct. 2, 10 a.m.
One of my favorite things about Jonathan Anderson is the joyfulness and camp in all of his collections. At the SS26 re-see, I got to see up close the way he drapes jersey fabric on a cape to make it look like silk, and how he creates ruffles out of denim instead of a delicate fabric. There is care in every seam, but there is also French history in the DNA of this collection, from the different types of bows to the tailoring and intentional use of buttons. Coincidentally, I watched “Napoleon” on my flight to Paris, which shared a lot of 18th century designs in this collection.
Rick Owens
Oct. 2, 5:30 p.m.
A Rick Owens show is a spiritual experience from the moment the music starts. It connects to a part of you that words cannot describe, a sensory stimulation that is out of this world. The way he manipulates fabric to tell a story always leaves you intrigued and questioning everything you know about clothing construction. After the show, I decided to see the “Temple of Love” exhibit at the Grand Palais across the street, and seeing Rick Owens’ creations in person validated that thought. There was a dress made out of tubes, but each tube was made of sequins that were inside out, so you only got to see the dull part of the sequin — it made no sense but it worked. Bravo, Rick. Bravo.
Issey Miyake
Oct. 3, 1:30 p.m.
The show notes explain that clothing can be a shield from different environments, and I felt that. To me, these pieces are a shield from reality, from the constructs of adulthood, from the right and wrong. Sometimes it’s OK when things don’t make sense and that evokes a feeling of happiness.
