During Fashion Month, designers embraced the high volume fashion trend, putting dramatic silhouettes at the forefront of their spring-summer 2026 collections. An antithesis to the revamped bandage dress and the plethora of naked dresses on the red carpet, these oversized, sculptural looks that sit away from the body were everywhere we turned, from New York to Paris—call it cocoon dressing.
Glamour’s cocoon dressing edit
At some shows, the trend took flight in the form of sculptural hoop skirts: Meruert Tolegen sent a model down the runway in a strapless minidress that jutted out at the waist, which would make walking through the door a challenging feat. Tibi and Dior made strong arguments for wide, larger-than-life skirts that offer wearers ample space from passersby, while Saint Laurent made sculptures out of nylon ballgowns. And balloon-like outerwear and barrel-armed tops walked the likes of Givenchy, MKDT Studio, Vaquera, Zimmermann, and Chloé.
The shift towards inflated silhouettes has been brewing for a while now, with barrel jeans, wide-leg trousers, and exaggerated blazers trickling down from the runways into our wardrobes. But this Fashion Month, the outsized looks drove home that, yes, we could all really use some room to breathe right now. “Fashion always absorbs the emotional atmosphere,” says Maite Aramayo, a fashion writer who runs the newsletter Sugarlesscoat. “When there’s uncertainty or tension in the world, great designers translate that into form and material rather than making literal political statements.”
“We’ve seen a kind of oversaturation of these almost quasi-superhero spandex ensembles that adhere to the body and put the female form very front and center,” says Mosha Lundström Halbert, founder of the fashion podcast Newsfash. “For a lot of women, that’s not how they feel most comfortable moving through the world, with everything on display.”
Many of the voluminous runway looks create a force field of fabric, acting as a form of protection. “To me, it’s designed for women through the female gaze,” says Kristen Bateman, a fashion writer, author, and creative consultant, referencing designers like Simone Rocha and Cecilie Bahnsen, who have always championed large, billowy styles. “We’re living in strange times, and I don’t think naked dressing fits the bill for many real-world women’s lives.” While it may be a style that works on the red carpet, Bateman says she wouldn’t feel safe or comfortable freeing the nipple on, say, the New York City subway.
