PARIS — Aside from the sweltering heat, all the Paris Fashion Week chatter centered on the major big-D debuts at Dior and Dries — and they didn’t disappoint.
Jonathan Anderson’s first collection in his triple-threat role at Christian Dior, overseeing men’s, women’s and couture, left buyers swooning. “Captivating,” “assured” and “elegant” were just a few of the buyers’ superlatives used to describe the show. Retailers plan a big buy into his vision with flared trousers, a new take on the Bar jacket, the multicolored trainers and his “already iconic” tote bag for spring 2026.
Elsewhere, Julian Klausner’s first runway collection as creative director of Dries Van Noten was equally — if more quietly — loved. His interpretation of prints and pastels was hailed as “a seamless continuation of the brand’s poetic spirit with a new, confident edge,” said Holt Renfrew fashion director Joseph Tang.
Bubbling beneath the surface was a current of political subversion, led by Willy Chavarria, who was named favorite collection, best format and breakout talent by several buyers. “His presentation reaffirms fashion as a powerful tool for visual protest,” said Victoria Dartigues.
But Chavarria’s eclectic play on vibrant color was exactly what buyers are looking for in a season in which retailers are prioritizing ease. From the front row, fluid wide-leg trousers, pajama dressing and light, breathable fabrics and plenty of color were noted as the styles most likely to resonate with customers.
With his layers of florals, Craig Green was another collection that pushed the color story.
With so much variety on offer, some buyers were hesitant to call out clear trends.
“I believe that moment has passed. What resonates now is the idea of individual curation: collections designed not to dictate but to invite. The must-have is no longer a singular item, but rather the pieces that reflect each man’s personal sensibility and rhythm,” said Simon Longland, fashion buying director at Harrods.
Budgets are ticking upward ever-so-slightly, many retailers reported, with an emphasis on supporting new talent that will excite the customer and give them a reason to spend.
Despite the soaring temperatures, buyers were energized by the strength of the collections and the buzz in the city.
“Steamy conditions in Paris may have dampened our personal looks but not our moods, with a schedule filled with inspiring, uplifting fashion and expansive creativity that we know will excite our customers,” said Bruce Pask, senior director of fashion at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.
Dior Men’s spring 2026
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Below, a selection of takes from top buyers:
Alessio Aramini, head of menswear, LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, Dries Van Noten, Dior, Acne Studios and Saint Laurent
Best show format: Certainly one of the most beautiful, original and talked-about shows was Willy Chavarria’s, where culture and street style took center stage. As usual, Jacquemus didn’t hold back on his show, especially with his celebratory after party. In terms of presentation, we can’t forget Rick Owens, who showcased his archive — an actual work of art.
Top trends and investment piece: Colorful shirts and suits took the spotlight, along with the ever-present loafer.
Budgets up or down: Budgets were kept very conservative this season, reflecting a strategic move toward rebuilding a healthy and sustainable business model.
New talent: Namacheko is definitely the brand that impressed me the most, along with Husband Paris.
Impressions of the week: Paris was truly electric during fashion week, radiating creativity, energy and a renewed sense of purpose. The city served as a vibrant backdrop to an intense calendar of shows, presentations and events while a new wave of emerging designers brought fresh ideas. Overall, it was a dynamic and memorable season.
Alice Feillard, director of menswear, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior, Saint Laurent, Jacquemus and The Row
Best show format: Rick Owens’ outstanding performance in the Palais de Tokyo fountain, Louis Vuitton’s spectacular set in front of Beaubourg, Ami’s cinematographic show and so Parisian [venue] on Place des Victoires, Y-3’s poetic dancing performance and Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s anime to present his collection.
Top trends: Fluid and soft tailoring for a refined yet casual elegance, luxurious natural lightweight fabrics, with quality being key. Layering, shirting, micro shorts, while leather and denim are still strong. The return of color after many seasons of monochrome shades. Earthy tones, especially chocolates, mixed with vivid and pastel colors.
Investment piece: A soft double-breasted jacket with pleated trousers from Saint Laurent, a pajama set from Dries Van Noten, a draped striped shirt from Hed Mayner, a light cotton or nylon carcoat and any oversize fluid shirt from Lemaire, a brown suede jacket from The Row or Officine Générale, a fluid, oversize shirt with matching pants from Fear of God. Leather sandals from Dior, leather minimal flip-flops or soft loafers from Lemaire or The Row.
Budgets up or down: Flat
New talent: Willy Chavarria (already spotted last season) and Kartik Research. We keep on investing on talents that we support and already carry, like Hed Mayner, 3.Paradis, Auralee, Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Fear of God and KidSuper.
Impressions of the week: Paris was a beautiful shot of creativity and joy this week. Paris is definitely the strongest fashion week, with a very good balance between mega brands that delivered great shows and emerging talents or independent brands with high creative voices. In a global luxury slowdown, brands managed to push fashion boundaries forward as the fashion industry needs the return of desirability, value-for-money and restoring customers’ confidence.
Bosse Myhr, director menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Dior
Best show format: Rick Owens’ show was incredible from start to finish and was followed by a tour of the excellent Rick Owens exhibition at the Galliera Museum. The second Paris AWGE show by A$AP Rocky had an elaborate set design, laid out as a courtroom with security guards, judges and metal detectors. Needless to say, the soundtrack was brilliant.
Top trends: Detailed patchworks, as seen in Junya Watanabe, Kartik Research and Craig Green. Flower prints and embroidery were another key trend almost visible on all runways, including at Issey Miyake and Bode.
Investment piece: The green leather bomber jacket from the Dior show.
New talent: Brain Dead, a label from Los Angeles, showed a great collection of elaborate streetwear, hiking-inspired pieces as well as extremely cleverly designed denim. ROA’s collection of outerwear and shoes is another collection we are excited about.
Cherry World, a streetwear brand created by Josh Levine, Fran Burns and Glen Luchford, is another discovery I am excited to bring to life at Selfridges.
Impressions of the week: It was hot in Paris this week, but collections that we saw in Paris got us very excited for what is to come in spring 2026.
Bruce Pask, senior director, men’s fashion, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Dior, Willy Chavarria, Craig Green, Lemaire and Officine Générale
Best show format: The glorious city of Paris and its surroundings were on wonderful display this show season. Jacquemus transported us to l’Orangerie de Versailles for Simon Porte Jacquemus’ touching tribute to his family and upbringing in the south of France. Rick Owens’ daring, baptismal fantasia in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo was astonishing and a perfect opening for his retrospective show across the boulevard at the Palais Galliera. Ami’s takeover of Place des Victoires was a wonderfully cinematic setting for this Parisian hometown favorite, featuring a wardrobe that was made for a city stroll. The threatening skies thankfully held off until the final looks walked. Pierre Mahéo also took to the streets for his incredibly charming Officine Générale show en plein air, a perfect way to highlight his chic, breezy and easy wardrobe. Emily Bode’s touching tribute to a noted relative, a famed composer, with songs and memories, and her entire collection presented in miniature on handmade figurines inside the grand Theatre National de l’Opera Comique, was simply magical.
Top trends: The nonchalant elegance that has characterized this season saw bold, inventive expression in Paris. The softly constructed, undone double-breasted jacket continues to be the sartorial statement of the season, appealing in its easy elegance for day and night. Tailored shorts have been prevalent, often shown with matching jackets. Both short, thigh-baring lengths and longer, much more voluminous shapes allow for personal preference. Hotel living and boudoir dressing has had a significant presence, with silky robes, fluid pajama shirts and pants, as both casual and eveningwear, appearing at Dries Van Noten, Sacai and Amiri. The flared leg jeans seen at Dior, Amiri and Junya Watanabe are key for the denim market.
Sandals of all sorts, from flip-flops to fishermen’s, were paired with both casual and dressed up looks and were especially appealing when paired with full, fluid trousers, as seen at Dior, Auralee and Lemaire. Mules and slippers paired perfectly with relaxed looks. Bright, vivid color was also prevalent and featured at Willy Chavarria and Saint Laurent.
Investment piece: From Dior — a velvet redingote, flares, fisherman sandals and a Truman Capote book tote.
New talent: The return of Sander Lak with his new namesake sportswear brand brought a welcome jolt of his signature color and pattern in a concise collection of cool, casual pieces that evoked the West Coast lifestyle.
Impressions of the week: The news was debuts, with fevered anticipation for Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior menswear show and the first runway presentation of Julian Klausner’s Dries Van Noten collection. Steamy conditions in Paris may have dampened our personal looks but not our moods, with a schedule filled with inspiring, uplifting fashion and expansive creativity that we know will excite our customers. The multibrand showrooms across Paris and centered in Le Marais are a vital adjunct and filled with discoveries from all over the globe.
Auralee spring 2026
Luca Tombolini/Courtesy of Aural
Daniel Todd, buying director, Mr Porter
Favorite collections: Auralee, Lemaire, The Row, A.Presse and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Willy Chavarria
Top trends: Soft power tailoring was a defining theme this season, seen across all collections from Rick Owens to Auralee. Designers embraced relaxed silhouettes, fluid cuts and deconstructed shapes — prioritizing comfort, identity and expression over rigidity. Auralee highlighted loose-cut wool-silk suits in soft spring tones that conveyed understated elegance, while Rick Owens offered strong-shouldered blazers, slashed and frayed, channeling his distinctive intensity.
Poppy red emerged as a standout shade this season, seen across both ready-to-wear and accessories. At Dries Van Noten, a balance between playful and refined — monochromatic poppy red sneakers and socks made an unexpected statement paired with a classic gray check opera coat. Willy Chavarria embraced the hue with bold red shirting under voluminous suiting, as well as a more understated take — a coordinated tracksuit and sweatshirt subtly layered over a pink polo for a gentle contrast.
Investment piece: A lightweight leather jacket — Auralee presented a great structured, pale ochre style this season. Elevated yet understated, it’s a timeless piece ideal for layering year-round.
New talent: Seeing Julian Klausner’s very first menswear collection for Dries Van Noten was a special moment — marking not just a new chapter for the house, but a thoughtful and adventurous continuation of its legacy.
Impressions of the week: It’s been a strong and exciting season, marked by bold exploration of fabric and form, and a thoughtful reimagining of traditional menswear codes. While designers embraced experimentation, the collections remained grounded in wearability and a distinct sense of brand identity.
David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Dior, Lemaire and Issey Miyake
Best show format: Nothing brings the drama like Mother Nature. Ami’s show took place outdoors on Place des Victoires. We arrived under gray skies as the balconies of the surrounding buildings filled with curious spectators. As the show progressed, the models didn’t exit — instead, they spiraled continuously around the statue of Louis XIV on horseback. Eventually, 54 of them filled the square. Just after Alexandre [Mattiussi] took his bow, the skies opened up, and a torrential rain poured down — a truly dramatic ending to a very special show.
Top trends: Shorts in all lengths and volumes are having a moment. From the shortest to the longest, we saw them in every showroom. And as the numbers climbed close to 100, they were in every front row, too. Colors continue in the dusty spice tones we saw in Milan, though bright pastels also emerged — especially the oversized tailoring at Willy Chavarria.
Investment piece: Light and floaty tailoring — trousers and jackets crafted from paper-light fabrics seemed to drift down the runway. Summer weddings next year are set to be extra chic.
Impressions of the week: Everyone was talking Dior. We need a new word for preppy — because it doesn’t even come close to capturing the stunning evolution Jonathan Anderson unveiled at Dior. I rarely get texts about runway shows from friends outside the industry, but his first Dior show blew up my phone. Everyone had an opinion on those cargo shorts — even my mother. Truly a fashion moment that will be impacting menswear for years to come.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner, The Square Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens and Lemaire
Best show format: My favorite show was Dior. I very much liked the unpretentiousness of the presentation, the easiness of the looks, and so many ideas and creativity. On the guests also [were] so many looks you wanted to wear immediately. It’s a long while since I felt so much desirability, and we have been really [waiting] for that moment for many seasons.
Top trends: Apart from shorts and colors that were maybe more [noted] than usual for the next spring 2026 collection, I see a quite strong eclecticism among collections offering a broad variety of options for customers. This is key for our business — to propose new offers, from relaxed preppy looks to chic oversize tailoring. It is the essence of fashion to regenerate itself. We are so happy and excited to have new strong creative directions at key fashion houses — and more to come.
Investment piece: Everything that is easy cool — not too complicated. Pieces you want to wear in summer without thinking too much. Light, easy sneakers, a polo shirt, cargo Bermudas.
Budgets up or down: We will start to invest again more on the men’s segment starting this season. So budgets are up. I am sure our customers will follow.
New talent: Willy Chavarria
Impressions of the week: There are very positive impressions this week. Apart from the strong, long-awaited shows there were two moments that really marked the week. First, was the Demna retrospective of his visionary fashion masterpieces during his reign at Balenciaga. Apart from the focus on products, which was so clever, the modernity of his visual approach for the exhibition makes all the pieces so accurate, desirable and fresh. I am not a fan of fashion in museums or retrospectives, it mostly looks old and dated, [but] Demna proved brilliantly it can be very much alive. And, of course, Rick Owens confirmed this with genius a few days later. What a show…and what an extraordinary exhibition at the Palais Galliera. It was a unique moment of authenticity. A real visionary. An absolute must-see.
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Rick Owens once again exceeded expectations with an exceptionally powerful staging. The massive pool at the center of the show immersed the audience in a fully sensory experience. Between aquatic choreography and sculptural silhouettes, the presentation danced between artistic performance and fashion statement. A striking and unforgettable moment.
Top trends: Color made a powerful comeback this season, with bold shades like deep green, vivid red and vanilla yellow dominating the collections.
On the materials front, seersucker is making a notable return, especially through breezy short-sleeved shirts that balance freshness with structure. Cotton-linen blends are also everywhere, on trousers, shirts and jackets alike. The prevailing mindset: relaxed elegance, with an embrace of comfort and lightness.
Very wide pants or shorts remain a big trend.
New talent: Song for the Mute continues to grow in confidence with its most accomplished collection to date. Its focus on material innovation reinforces the brand’s poetic and artisanal identity.
Another highlight this season was the rediscovery of Mii, whose delicate embroidery and vibrant color combinations brought a sense of lightness and authenticity to the collections.
Impressions of the week: Fashion week once again proved to be a vibrant hub of energy and surprise. This season marked the definite return of color, bringing joy and lightness to the collections. Quiet luxury persists, but in a more casual, relaxed iteration. The overall mood strikes a new balance between ease, refinement and visual vitality, infusing men’s fashion with a refreshing sense of modern elegance.
Willy Chavarria spring 2026
Dominique Maitre/WWD
Görkem Şahin, general merchandising manager — designer men’s, Beymen Group
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro and Saint Laurent
Best show format: Rick Owens’ “Temple of Love” presentation was the best for being the most theatrical and immersive format. They transformed the Palais de Tokyo into a sculptural stage, with all guests surrounding the fountain, breaking the traditional runway seating. Models walked on a raised catwalk suspended over the water. It was an intense sensory experience [with] sound, atmosphere, movement and water.
Top trends: Fluid tailoring, relaxed suiting, artisanal textures, sheer layering, hybridization and modular dressing, and workwear redefined.
Investment piece: Rick Owens draped outerwear; Lemaire tailored, flowy trousers; Sacai × Carhartt workwear hybrids, and Dries Van Noten oversize printed shirts.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are steady or slightly up.
New talent: Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten.
Impressions of the week: Designers were more focused on storytelling and emotion. We have seen more lighter fabrics, looser silhouettes [for] easy and elegant clothing. Even with artistic expression, most collections offered pieces that are beautifully made and easy-to-wear. Despite the current global mood, many collections felt hopeful and uplifting — full of color, movement and positivity.
Isla Lynch, director of womenswear buying, Ssense
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Willy Chavarria, Stein, Our Legacy and Auralee
Best show format: Rick Owens at the Palais de Tokyo — though the location remains constant, he delivered something strikingly new with a towering scaffold at the terrace pool, where models descended into the water and emerged drenched, presenting the looks in a more sensory and dimensional way.
Top trends: Thong-style sandals and slides popped up everywhere from Kiko Kostadinov to Dries Van Noten, and Louis Vuitton to Lemaire.
Investment piece: Lemaire’s belted hobo bag — offered this season in leather, suede and canvas cottons — looks poised to dethrone the croissant as the brand’s next standout silhouette.
Budgets up or down: Ssense customers are gravitating toward brands like Rick Owens, Our Legacy, Lemaire and Auralee, whose seasonal consistency and cohesive wardrobing stand out — and continue to drive budgets upward.
New talent: Carter Young Altman of Carter Young, Marc Kalman of Still Kelly and Literary Sport.
Impressions of the week: The halo effect of Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior collection (“perfect”) added some energy into the menswear calendar. There’s a certain tension leading up to the debut of collections by the newly appointed creative directors in the industry looking to shake things up for the coming season.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Dior, Jacquemus, Rick Owens, Bode and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Bode’s “The Expressionist” combining a lively jazz piano performance with dolls wearing a miniaturized version of the collection.
Top trends: Selvedge straight-leg denim, soccer-inspired sneakers, bright red statement pieces and relaxed sport coats.
Investment piece: Jonathan Anderson’s unconstructed moccasin sneaker hybrids at Dior.
New talent: Kartik Research, Sander Lak and Greg Laboratory
Impressions of the week: There’s a lightness and brightness to this season’s offerings that seem to counterbalance a world that increasingly seems in the opposite mood. Simultaneously, there’s an embrace of making sensible products with a certain classically masculine integrity (like Japanese selvedge denim in of-the-moment straight fits) that offer an enticing newness with a welcome dose of familiarity, a recipe for success in menswear.
Jacquemus spring 2026
Courtesy of Jacquemus
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dior, Jacquemus, Dries Van Noten, The Row and Rick Owens
Best show format: Willy Chavarria’s show was an emotional tribute to his hometown, mixed with his Adidas collaboration, and felt deeply personal and visually striking. Rick Owens followed up his powerful show with “The Temple of Love” exhibition at Palais Galliera. It blurred the lines between runway, performance and retrospective, and was one of the most memorable moments of the week.
Top trends: The Paris heat wave shaped the mood and even influenced what people wore. Designers leaned into lightweight, breathable fabrics like cotton poplin and linen, which felt both practical and fresh. Pajama dressing made a strong return, reimagined with polish by Sacai, Dries Van Noten and Ami. Bright, saturated color brought energy to the runways, with bright hits of magenta, cobalt blue and Kelly greens seen at Dries, Dior and Issey Miyake. Tailoring took a relaxed turn, with shorts styled with blazers or lightweight suiting seen at Amiri, Ami and Lemaire.
Investment piece: Jonathan Anderson’s reworking of Dior’s iconic Bar jacket is already a must-have from his debut collection. Dries Van Noten’s satin sneakers are set to become a hero piece come spring. Also worth noting are Junya Watanabe’s Levi’s linen capsule and Sacai’s take on Carhartt. Both collaborations balance function with fashion in standout ways.
New talent: Auralee continues to impress with its clean, elevated approach to everyday dressing. The styling this season was especially strong, reinforcing the brand’s quiet power.
Impressions of the week: It’s been an incredible season, driven by fresh ideas and innovative designs. All eyes were on Paris as the city came to a standstill for Jonathan Anderson’s highly anticipated debut collection for Dior. A sense of joy defined the season, with many designers embracing a more carefree and relaxed approach to presenting their collections. This men’s season marks the beginning of what we expect to be a significant shift in the fashion industry, with many more brands set to reveal new design directions during the women’s collections in September. We’re excited to see what the months ahead will bring.
Lauren Amos, owner, Ant/Dote
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Walter van Beirendonck, Lu’u Dan, Dior and IFM Paris
Best show format: Traditional runway shows have seemingly become an extension of influencer marketing, the necessity of which brands without huge budgets seem to be questioning. Conversely, look books can at times feel overly utilitarian. With Lu’u Dan, the look book serves as a styling guide that is amplified by a physical environment in the showroom that has games, photos and a staff that is as integral to the design ideas as the reception. The “conventional” runway show of note for us comes from Willy Chavarria’s show of solidarity with immigrants experiencing deportation and incarceration in rampant ICE raids in the U.S.; it was thoughtful and created a grounding moment. Being able to illustrate the lived reality of so many in the U.S. right now to a European audience feels like a huge feat. We can wear our beliefs and hearts on our sleeves even while creating fantasies and offering propositions of beauty.
Top trends: Silhouettes keep moving towards slimmer and slimmer pants, as we can see at Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens and Dior. Slim, low-profile sneakers are popping up everywhere. from Margiela to Rick Owens to Acne Studios. Deconstructed tailoring that’s reimagined in new shapes at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Walter Van Beirendonck.
Investment piece: We can’t narrow to just one, and would say to invest in a wardrobe full of Phoebe Philo’s upcoming Collection D. The collection explored a variety of rich textures that translate easily from daily wear to formal and event dressing.
Impressions of the week: The week felt a little quiet and a little restrained. Smaller brands opted for look books instead of shows, which we don’t necessarily mind as buyers, but it makes for a feeling of some hesitancy in the industry. It also felt like a season between big moments. There’s one eye to the past with retrospectives opening for Rick Owens and Demna’s work at Balenciaga while we all wait for collections from the rotation of creative directors.
Simon Longland, fashion buying director, Harrods
Favorite collections: Dior, Junya Watanabe, Saint Laurent and Lemaire
Best format: Rick Owens, unsurprisingly, pushed boundaries — this time quite literally. Models ascended monumental metal scaffolding, walked through cascading fountains in towering Kiss boots, and turned the runway into performance art. It was surreal, primal, and wildly engaging. Only in Paris could such a spectacle unfold without — seemingly — a single health and safety form in sight.
Emerging trends: Pajama dressing dominated the week — fluid, soft silhouettes that nodded to ease but never laziness; Stripes were omnipresent: bold, graphic, rooted in tradition but used with fresh energy. The language of suiting was rewritten — unstructured, flowing, deeply modern; denim, in all its iterations, was everywhere; shirting and collar grounded and elevated nearly every look; shorts varied wildly in length — from micro to maxi — but were undeniably key; color was central to the most successful collections: vibrant, purposeful and mood-enhancing.
Investment piece: I hesitate to single out a product because I believe that moment has passed. What resonates now is the idea of individual curation: collections designed not to dictate but to invite. The must-have is no longer a singular item, but rather the pieces that reflect each man’s personal sensibility and rhythm.
Impressions of the week: There was a rare sense of cohesion this season in Paris — designers appeared unusually aligned in their vision, with common threads emerging across collections without ever feeling derivative. What struck me most was the optimism. We saw collections rooted in beauty, certainly, but also grounded in real clothes designed for real lives — pieces to covet, wear and ultimately keep. There was a clarity of purpose that felt both contemporary and human.
Kartik Research spring 2026
Courtesy of Kartik Research
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Dior, Willy Chavarria and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Ami set the scene at the top location of Place des Victoires, with the looming storm casting a dramatic light on the bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV in all its glory.
Top trends: Impossible to miss the relaxed sophistication with relaxed tailoring, from flared trousers to soft shoulders mixed with wardrobe staples such as large stripes shirts, cargo trousers or polos.
Spring 2026 is wearable, the perfect balance of creativity and practicality, colorful with touches of craftsmanship.
Bold colors were a dominant theme across all shows, with striking shades of red, blue, pink, green and orange — turquoise and aqua at Willy Chavarria, soft pinks at Dries Van Noten — proving that color is more present than ever in menswear.
Investment piece: This season’s menswear silhouette embraced volume and ease, with oversize shirts, big shorts and Bermudas taking center stage, often paired with fisherman sandals for a relaxed yet intentional look. Also, we note statement accessories, from ties to bold eyewear and headwear and Utility trousers paired with a double-breasted soft jacket.
Budgets up or down: Flat
New talent: Feng Chen Wang celebrated its first decade with its collection “A Future in Bloom” for elegant, romantic and layered silhouettes.
Impressions of the week: Paris meets the expectations with highly anticipated show debuts. We also have seen strong cultural storytelling and activism statements this season. It was a fusion of heritage, craftsmanship and versatility.
Spring 2026 opens a new chapter, one of dreams, lightness and colors. In contrast to fall 2025, spring 2026 is about optimism, holiday spirit and a renewed desire to escape.
Will Zhang, founder, SND
Favorite collection: Dior
Best format: Rick Owens. I remain captivated by Rick Owens’ avant-garde showmanship. His spring 2026 collection, held at the Palais de Tokyo, featured a striking “temple” set that was both awe-inspiring and thought-provoking. What truly amazed me, however, was the civilization and faith he built through the “Temple of Love” series. The highly theatrical collection, combined with live installation art and interactive performances, created a unique immersive experience. The venue’s layout also allowed attendees to visit the nearby Palais Galliera afterward for Rick Owens’ retrospective, a seamlessly integrated experience. Among the exhibition’s highlights was a controversial urinating statue, which sparked much discussion and reflected Owens’ introspective look at his creative journey.
Top trends: Embroidery, prints and American streetwear-inspired vintage styles remain key trends this season. These elements, compared to the long-term trend of minimalism, have higher visibility, signaling a revival of retro vibes and reflecting a shift in consumer mood toward more expressive dressing.
Investment piece: Looks from Lemaire, Dries Van Noten and Auralee are key investment pieces worth watching.
Budget up or down: Our OTB has remained stable over the past few seasons without increase, and market responses have yet to show positive feedback. Nonetheless, our expectations for both emerging and leading brands remain high.
New talent: Mira Mikati stood out as a brand with a strong memorability factor during our buying trip. While not entirely new to the industry, the Lebanese designer brand is renowned for its bold colors, playful patterns and high-quality craftsmanship. It blends modern pop culture with artistry and emphasizes comfort and individuality. Mira Mikati is committed to breaking gender boundaries and creating a global, diverse fashion language, gaining significant traction in the international market in recent years.
Impressions of the week: Aside from the sweltering June heat in Paris, fashion week remained as exciting as ever. Each day brought new industry updates. For instance, Anna Wintour announced her departure from the role of editor in chief at U.S. Vogue; Jonathan Anderson made the move from Loewe to Dior, and Louis Vuitton’s cruise ship campaign, once a niche topic for the fashion world, has become a global sensation.
Young-Su Kim, divisional merchandise manager, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria, Lemaire, Dior, Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: The Céleste Boursier-Mougenot installation at Saint Laurent brought a sense of introspection, juxtaposed against the rich colors and strong proportions of Anthony Vaccarello’s collection.
Top trends: We saw excellent examples of pajama dressing, especially at Dries Van Noten; beautiful pastels from Homme Plissé, and bright pops of color at Auralee and Willy Chavarria. The proportions of the season are still relaxed with loose trousers, single or double-pleated. There were many references to preppy culture, which, of course, were at their best at Polo Ralph Lauren. Shorts were a significant story, shown in a wide variety of styles, from the long and wide at Homme Plissé and Lemaire, to short and tailored at Dries Van Noten. There were also great examples of lightness using linens and silks, as we saw at Lemaire, Officine Générale and Yohji Yamamoto.
New talent: We were thrilled to have Sander Lak return to Paris. His collection for the brand, SanderLak, was influenced by Los Angeles and Venice Beach’s skater culture with cool colors and relaxed proportions.
Impressions of the week: There was a lot of excitement in the air in Paris this season. Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior was big news and his interpretation of the house codes and plays on volume did not disappoint. The ease in dressing that we saw in Milan continued, with a distinctly Parisian perspective. Color will be a major talking point for the season, from the bright and bold to the light and muted.
Craig Green men’s spring 2026
Courtesy of Craig Green
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.
