I’m a royal expert — here’s the evolution of Royal Ascot fashion from the last 300 years | Royal | News

Royal Ascot is synonymous with British fashion focusing on traditional elegance. It’s easily one of the biggest events of the summer calendar, and the Royal Family officially open the annual event each day.

Women from around the world have put their best fashion foot forward for centuries. While Ascot may be known for its traditional dress codes, fashion at the event has dramatically evolved. From fleeting trends to vibrant and floral designs, embracing the essence of summer. However, over the years, we have seen many ladies embrace smart, tailored suits and make eco-conscious choices.

There is also a growing interest in vintage finds and pre-loved pieces that reflect a shift towards more sustainable style. On Tuesday, we saw the Duchess of Edinburgh fly the flag for sustainable fashion by re-wearing a stunning design by Suzannah London that she was spotted in the year before.

I’m a royal fashion expert and I have taken a look at how Royal Ascot fashion has evolved.

Dating back to 1711, Royal Ascot is deeply rooted in royal tradition, thanks to its founding by Queen Anne. Since then, it has enjoyed the continued patronage of twelve successive monarchs.

The late Queen Elizabeth II played a pivotal role in shaping the modern royal presence at Ascot, regularly appearing in vibrant, statement-making ensembles. She developed a distinctive personal style that served not only as a reflection of her identity but also as a subtle yet powerful tool for communication and diplomacy.

While she always respected the formal dress codes, she also brought a modern edge — favouring above-the-knee tailored skirt suits and occasionally opting for plunging necklines, redefining elegance for a new generation of royals.

Between 1711 and 1806, there was no official dress code for Royal Ascot, as social norms largely dictated how people dressed.

Upper-class women typically wore elaborate gowns with corsets, while middle-class women favoured similar silhouettes with less ornate detailing. In contrast, working-class women wore simpler garments, often consisting of linen shifts, petticoats, and gowns with detachable sleeves.

The first significant shift came in 1807, when Beau Brummell—a close friend of the future King George IV—declared that men should wear formal black coats, white cravats, and tailored pantaloons, establishing the foundation of formal menswear at Ascot.

While women’s fashion remained more flexible for a time, Queen Victoria set a new precedent in the 1830s when she wore a porter bonnet to the races, effectively making hats a standard for female attendees.

The S-bend corset was a key fashion trend in the early 1900s, typically worn with frilly blouses and full skirts that defined the Edwardian silhouette.

By the 1920s, fashion evolved to reflect the spirit of the flapper era, with shorter hemlines, relaxed shapes, and a more liberated style. Coco Chanel played a pivotal role in popularising pearls, using them to create looks that were both elegant and understated. Although pearls had long been a fashion staple, Chanel helped reimagine them for modern women.

In the 1940s, due to fabric shortages during and after World War II, clothing production followed the government’s Utility Scheme, which aimed to conserve materials. Fashion became more practical and structured, a trend that continued into the 1950s. Skirts typically fell just below the knee with a straight silhouette, and were often paired with boxy jackets featuring padded shoulders. Accessories like disk hats also rose in popularity during this era.

The swinging ’60s marked a turning point for Royal Ascot fashion, as styles became more relaxed and structured undergarments like girdles fell out of favour.

In the 1970s, Ascot fashion blended tradition with the decade’s evolving trends—women embraced bold prints, flowing dresses, and wide-brimmed hats, while men introduced subtle flair to classic morning dress. It was a time of expressive yet elegant style within the bounds of formal etiquette.

By the 1980s, women fully embraced bold glamour, with power silhouettes, vibrant colours, and dramatic, oversized hats making a statement.

The 1990s brought a shift toward refined minimalism. Sleeker lines, pastel tones, and understated hats defined the era, as Royal Ascot fashion moved toward subtle sophistication in line with broader fashion trends.

During the early 2000s, Royal Ascot fashion reflected the playful, eclectic spirit of the Y2K era. Women embraced bold experimentation with color, embellishments, and asymmetrical cuts, often blending contemporary trends with traditional formalwear. The fascinator rose to prominence during this time—smaller, sculptural, and often whimsical, it became a modern alternative to the classic wide-brimmed hat.

The 2010s marked a shift toward modern elegance, with midi dresses, lace details, and pastel tones taking center stage. Fascinators remained a staple, but wide-brimmed hats experienced a revival, influenced by royals like the Princess of Wales seamlessly blending tradition with contemporary flair.

By 2015, fashion leaned further into classic sophistication, with a noticeable return to wide-brimmed hats, complementing the polished, feminine styles that defined the decade.

Women’s style has featured sleek silhouettes, floral prints, bold color blocking, and structured tailoring, with midi and tea-length dresses remaining popular. Increasingly, many women are also opting for tailored suits, offering a fresh, empowered take on formalwear that combines sophistication with contemporary edge. This shift adds a sense of confidence and individuality to the traditionally feminine dress code.

Millinery has continued to evolve, with both dramatic wide-brimmed hats and intricate, sculptural fascinators making bold statements. Designers have pushed creative boundaries within Ascot’s dress code, turning headwear into wearable art.

There has also been a growing focus on sustainable fashion, with guests—and notably members of the Royal Family—placing greater emphasis on conscious style choices. Queen Camilla, the Princess of Wales, and the Duchess of Edinburgh have all been seen re-wearing or repurposing outfits, setting an example for elegant, eco-conscious dressing.

Overall, Royal Ascot fashion in recent years reflects a thoughtful blend of tradition, individuality, innovation, and sustainability.