Behind the counter at Hong Kong’s first cheese omakase
Almost everyone in Hong Kong knows Laughing Cow: the grinning red cow on a round blue-and-white box, packed with foil-wrapped triangles of soft, tangy cheese with an unmistakably artificial plastic sheen. Surprisingly, it’s also beloved in France, the land of strict appellations and strong opinions on dairy. For Jeremy Evrard, owner of the much-buzzed-about cheese…